Vancouver and an oversized sweater

*日本語は英文の後に続きます。For readers from Japan, Japanese text will follow below.*

Hello! I had been sewing a lot, but while I wanted to write there hasn’t been much finished to show. I am almost finished with a project  – hope that I will be able to show it here soon!

I recently took another trip to Vancouver and a visit to my knitting Sensei (a.k.a. Mom) It was a relaxing visit and I loved going to buy yarn and talking about knitting with her:-)  I have a soft spot for hand-dyed yarns which are not so easy to come by in Japan, so I felt like I was running into a candy store when I went into the local yarn store Three Bags Full (which I also went to on my last visit). I really love this store – it carries many local yarns which I have never heard of online –  the yarns are all very beautiful and I had a hard time deciding which ones to take home.

I finally decided on these skeins from Raincity Knits. They are very squishy and soft. This brand actually has a lot of very saturated fluorescent colorways too, which would look cool for accessories, I think – the owner of the brand dyed her yarns in bright colors as “an antidote to the endless grey skies in the West Coast”:-). I bought enough for a sweater/shawl for myself and also a scarf for hubby, too.

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I also had my eye on some yarns from Tanis Fiber Arts. The colours are stunning and I could not decide which ones to buy!  I am relieved they have international shipping as I probably want to buy some for my next project:-)

During my time in Vancouver I also finished the sweater I was knitting – Light Trails by Suvi Simola – using yarns I bought on my last trip to this city.  The actual pattern – a chic oversized sweater with three-quarter sleeves – is very beautiful. I decided to modify the sleeves and knit full-length ones to combat the cold. Now I see why the designer made her pattern quarter-length sleeved, they look much better that way! The veeerrry long sleeves on my version just make it look too oversized. I hope to show this again when I have gotten around to shortening the sleeves.

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A close-up of my knitting Sensei’s garden – I am so impressed that there are still so many bright and beautiful flowers in October!

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I started using the newly acquired yarn to work on my next project – a shawl/sweater from a Japanese pattern book. Hopefully an update and more pictures on that soon:-)

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Thank you for reading!

***

ご無沙汰しております。2ヶ月ぶりの更新ですが、理由は…大好きなソーイングの失敗の繰り返しで、この場で披露する新しい作品もなくしばらく更新を休んでしまいました。気持ちを改めてまた新しいソーイングプロジェクトを始めましたので今度はぜひ成功してこの場で披露したいと思います^^

この間はまだバンクーバーに行ってきました♪母親(私の編み物の先生)と一緒に毛糸が売っているお店に行ったり、編み物の話をしたりしてとても楽しかったです。母親は相変わらず編むのが早く、私が滞在した一週間の間に私のために編んでいたセーターを完成させました。日本ではなかなか見つからないhand-dyed (手染め)毛糸を販売しているお店が比較的に多いからバンクーバーでの毛糸を購入するのがとても好きです。私の一番のお気に入りのお店は以前も話しましたThree Bags Fullという、主に地元の素敵なヤーンブランドがおいてあって、質のよいスペシャルな毛糸たちといっぱい出会える良いお店です。

今回はずいぶん迷っていた結果、地元バンクーバーのブランド、Raincity Knitsの毛糸を、自分のセーターの分と旦那のマフラー分を購入しました。すごくふわふわした手触りで、完成品を着るのをいまから楽しみにしています^^今回は無難の紺色を購入しましたが、このブランドはこのような落ちづいているきれいな色のほかに、「雲の日でも元気になれる鮮やか」な蛍光色の毛糸も展開しています。その他、同じお店でTanis Fiber Artsというモントリオールのヤーンブランドの毛糸も気になりました。色が本当にきれいで、色を決めれず結局買いませんでした(涙)

バンクーバーに滞在していた間にずっと編んでいたLight Trails by Suvi Simola(こちらも前回Three Bags Fullで購入した毛糸を使って)を完成させました・・・が・・・袖が長い。このパータンの7分袖とオーバーサイズの感じがおしゃれで気に入ったのに、寒がりやの私がついデザインのバランスのことを忘れて長い〜袖にしてしまいました。やはりこのままだとだぼだぼでせっかくの素敵なデザインの台無しなので、袖を短くしてまたこの場でお披露目をしたいと思います。

その前に、ゲットした毛糸で早速新しいプロエジェクトを始めました。日本の編み物本のパターンです。詳しくはまた追ってこちらでお話したいと思います♪

読んでいただきありがとうございました!

life recently and COTTON FRIEND Autumn 2014

日本語は英文のあとに続きます。For my Japanese readers, Japanese text will follow the English.

It has been awhile since my last post and I quite missed updating this blog. Work is taking up a lot of my time these days. My job is enjoyable, but I hope to find a better balance to have more time to sew/knit and to work on this blog!

I had been working on two projects (another shirt for my husband, and a Republique du Chiffon Robe Marie from Un Ete Couture) but I could not stay on course to complete them. The former it was because the fabric shifted easily and the check patterns on the two fronts of the shirt ended up not matching, and with Robe Marie, I used a beautiful but delicate linen lawn, which combined with the difficulty of the pattern made for a sad fail:(  Oh well, now that it is coming to the end of the summer, I am looking forward to start making fall/winter items! I am almost finished making another shirt (this time in a good quality cotton chambray to save myself from check-matching:-), and I also cut the pattern for the Republique du Chiffon Veste Bernadette which is a Chanel-style jacket:-) so excited to get it done!! Another item I hope to work on soon is the Burdastyle Seamed Shift Dress 08/2014 #104B. So pretty!

My new work schedule has not discouraged me from spending time in the sewing book corner of bookshops in the free time I have. In fact, I think I have accumulated a lot of books over the last two months.

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Here’s a peek at the latest issue of Cotton Friend. This is the first time I have really looked at this magazine, and I quite like this issue! It is different from FEMALE (by the same publisher and is currently no longer published) in that the style is more simple. My initial impression of the magazine (before I opened one finally) was that it was full of shapeless smocks, but I did find many items in there I like which attracted me to buy this issue.

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cottonfriend092014_3 This checked shirt on the left-hand page is the first pattern which attracted me to buy the magazine. It will probably look nice in a crisp fabric for work as well.

cottonfriend092014_4I am a sucker for hoodie patterns:-)

cottonfriend092014_5The long jacket seems like a useful pattern to have, and I love the orangey ensemble! I don’t know if i have any use for it but I like the styling!!

cottonfriend092014_6This is one of the featured patterns – and it is turned into many different styles. I don’t dislike it at all:-) It is versatile like the Colette Laurel, which is actually one of the items I wear the most on weekends (I am thinking of making a black one to wear to work, perhaps with a belt).

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cottonfriend092014_8Instructions for featured pattern (the top/dress above) comes with step by step instructions with photos!

cottonfriend092014_10 I like top #28 – those frill details add a nice touch!

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I like #34 – kind of like a piece from A.P.C.:-) That shirt on #31 is cute too but it is RTW with no pattern included (the skirt, which is also very nice, is a pattern included with the magazine).

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The hoodie again, this time in zip-up form! ^_^

Lastly, a good collection of cosmetic bags, pouches and purses which I would love to make for friends and family if I have the time! they all look so nice…

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How lovely are these pin cushions and mini Le Creuset-like containers:-) heart-eyed…

cottonfriend092014_18I hope you enjoyed the review! Cotton Friend Autumn 2014 is available at sew tokyo.

Have you started sewing for Autumn yet or are you still working on summer items? (after seeing Cecili’s beautiful little white dress as well as Sarai’s white linen Laurel I am a little tempted to sway from my sewing plans and make my own Little White Dress before summer ends:-)

***

ご無沙汰しています。最近は残業の日々が続いてなかなかソーイングや編み物をする時間、このブログを更新する時間も少なくなりました。もう少しで落ちづくことを期待しています^^

前回の記事を書いてから、旦那のためにシャツと自分のためにRepublique du Chiffon のRobe Marieの製作に励んでいたが、両方もうまく行かず失敗作で終わってしまった。まあ、もうすぐ秋なのでこれからは秋冬向けのアイテムに集中することにしました。

旦那のために秋冬用のシャンブレーシャツはもうすぐで完成、そして自分用のシャネル風ジャケット風ジャケット(型紙はRepublique Du ChiffonのVeste Bernadette)もいよいよ仮縫い作成のステージまでたどり着きました^_^ (身長があるので市販の型紙に「長さ」を足す作業がかなり時間がかかります。。。)時間があればBurdastyleのSeamed Shift Dress 08/2014 #104Bも素敵で作りたいなあ〜

気分転換のためか、最近は本屋を通るたびにソーイングや編み物の本を買ってしまっています。本だから、少し奮発してもよいかな?コットンフレンドは今回はじめて購入しました。いままでは「スモックばかり」「ナチュラル系」のイメージを持っていたので本屋でみかけても手にとったことがないが、フード付きパーカーやカジュアル目のシャツ、きれいなラインのスモックなど、使えそうなパターンが入っているので気に入っています。スタイリングも素敵ですね!

皆さんは、もう秋冬の準備をし始めましたか。私は昨日まではそのつもりで動いていたが、CeciliさんSaraiさんのかわいすぎる夏の白いワンピースをみて、私も夏が終わる前に白いワンピースを作りたくなっちゃった(笑):-)

Marine Top on Marine Day

日本語は英文のあとに続きます。

Hi everyone!

It’s the end of the three-day weekend in Japan (Marine Day today!) Instead of going to the beach, I spent another relaxing day at home sewing and house-making:-) Sounds a little unbelievable especially for those who know me, but I start to enjoy doing chores quite a bit since moving to our new house.

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Anyway, what  a better way to end Marine Day by sharing with you my marine knit top, which I just finished blocking today! It is pattern K from Kazekobo’s Simple Summer Knits and I used a Japanese yarn which is a cotton/linen blend, as well as a cotton lace yarn (the pattern tells you to use the colour yarn and the off-white lace yarn at once so you get a specked effect).  I made it exactly according to the book, in the same colours too! Not because I was lazy per say but I like this colour combination (my husband, however, has a different opinion^^;

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It is super simple to knit but it was a pain to have to change yarns every 8 rows. Also, I don’t know what I did wrong but the neckline part is not the prettiest… there was a point I became so frustrated I thought about giving up but I am glad I followed through to finish it. It looked pretty puffy and like something I would not wear after I knitted it, thank goodness wet-blocking flattened it and made it a lot nicer!!  The pattern is one-size fits all, and I think the fit is not too bad:D

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Sorry for the blurry pictures…. I was so excited about finding this new photo spot in our house! On the display on the camera they didn’t look so blurry…

And in case you are wondering why I am not wearing my shoes… I tried but couldn’t put them on in time for the 15-second camera timer:P

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As usual, let me introduce the book I used while I am at it. I bought the book last summer and now looking back it is interesting to see how my taste changed in one year… the things I want to make now are completely different from those I wanted to make last year (though the Breton is still high on my list for this year too!)

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This lacey vest was on my to-make list last year.

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I still want to make this Breton top!

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Love the waffle-ly texture of this vest/shawl.

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On last year’s to do list.

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Again, love this interesting texture…

marineknit18 hey, my top!

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Love this retro-looking scarf.

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I used to think that knitting is only for the winter season and there is no need for knitted items in the summer but I proved myself wrong! This year I have been wearing every weekend the lacey linen top I made last summer (and which I am guilty of labelling “meh, it’s not very me” in my 2013 round up…)  I am already planning another summer knit project for this year!

And how about you, any summer items on your knitting needles currently?

Kazekobo’s Simple Summer Knits is available at sew tokyo.

 ***

みなさんは何をして三連休を過ごしましたか。私は、海に行かないでずっと家かその近所にいて編み物したり、洋服を作ったりしてすごくのんびりして過ごしました。編んでいたセーターを編み終えて、ブロッキングし、ちょうど海の日の今日、夏らしいボーダーセーターが完成しました!

上記の英文のほうで記載されている「風工房のシンプル夏ニット、こもの」のパターンKのフレンチスリーブセーターで、ワンサイズです。本に記載されている作品の色を気に入り、そのままマネしちゃいました!この作品はハマナカフラックスKとハマナカポームレースを各1本の2本取りで編みます。

メリヤス編みとガーター編みのみのパターンなので、簡単でしたが8段毎に毛糸を変えるのが面倒でした。また、えりぐりの部分はなかなかうまく進めず途中であきらめそうだったが、やっと編み終えたことにほっとしました。ブロッキングする前はフレンチスリーブがパフスリーブのようにみえ、「時間をいっぱいかけて作ったのに、これは着れないな、、、」と心配しましたが、ブロッキングが終わったらちゃんとしたフレンチスリーブのトップスになりました。

いつもセルフタイマーで写真をとっているのですが、今日に限ってほぼすべての写真のピントが合わなかった:-( また、今日選んだ靴は、履くのに時間がかかりすぎてセルフタイマーの最長時間(15秒)に設定しても間に合わなかったので、裸足で、、、(笑)

編み物は冬の趣味と考えがちですが、リネンやコットンの毛糸を使ったセーターとカーディガンなら軽くて涼しくて夏に着ても全然OKだと思います。昨年の夏に初めて編んだリネンセーター(昨年はまったくといっていいほど着なかったのに)を今年の夏ヘビロテしているし、ファストファッションのお店で買う冷房対策用のカーディガンより自分で編んだ方がずっと大切にできると思います。

みなさんは、この夏何か編んでいますか。

Mrs Stylebook Mid-Summer 2014

The newest issue of Mrs. Stylebook. A pretty good one!

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The designer patterns are always the “selling point” of these magazines, I believe, with patterns from actual clothing brands. This time, the brands featured were “Tiravento” and “I-na”. I quite like the red dress (I would make it in a dark navy) and like the Chanel-like jacket with shorts look.

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These two outfits are not my style but the colourful top does look nice and the skirts are interesting!

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The first feature of this issue is how to dress to make the best of your height. Then comes my favourite part of the magazine (and reason one of why I bought it:-) – summer basics!

I like shirt #2!

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My number two reason for buying this magazine – inspiring dresses!

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I especially like this turquoise dress.Simple, looks comfortable yet elegant.

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Dresses is actually the third feature of this magazine – basically you can make many different dresses by using the instructions on how to change the collar, sleeves, etc. Pattern for the basic dress is included in real size.

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Many more beautiful patterns in the magazine makes me heart-eyed and happy:-)

For over a year I bought Mrs Stylebooks but never ended up making anything from them, since the hurdle to draft my own pattern is high! Now, I actually feel like I would like the challenge, and since it takes time for me to adjust the commercial patterns to my size anyway, But then, it is so hard to ignore the beckoning of my stack of cute/beautiful Indie patterns sitting in my closet:-)

Do you have a sloper and have you tried drafting patterns? or are you like me and been using only commercial patterns so far?

Mrs Stylebook Mid-Summer 2014 is available at sew tokyo.

basics

(日本語が英文の後に続きます。)

I did exactly what I said I would do in my previous post, make up some more Republique du Chiffon patterns! Two to be exact:-)

First, let me start with the more successful of the two, the top of the RDC Anne-Marie top and skirt set. I went quite crazy when I saw all those nice RDC patterns and could not decide what to make first, but a white simple top is always a good place to start and I wanted to wear it to work.

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It is basically a woven t-shirt with buttons on both sides, very easy to make except for the hand-hemming. I like the boxy shape:-) I used a piece of white broadcloth which has been in my stash since last summer.

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I lengthened by 2 cm. I can see it paired up with a slim pencil skirt (that is on the sewing list!) for work.

The pattern tells you to add a 1 cm seam allowance after tracing, and recommends seam finishing by surging or zig-zagging the edges, which is what I did. It is nice to have some basics in my closet, and I think I will wear it a bit!

*note: for me i couldn’t get the pattern pieces of the button placket and main t-shirt body – one of them, I forgot which, was 1-2 cm longer and I thought I made a mistake in tracing but was not sure where the error occurred.

Next, I made the Jupe Hotesse from the book Un Ete Couture. It is really a simple make, no frills, all the edges are finished by zig-zag stitching. The material I used is a cotton twill or garbardine which has a nice sheen. I was too lazy to add a lining and now I regret it since it clings when I walk. I originally made a muslin for the size my waist corresponds to, but it turned out too big so I went for a size smaller the S and added 1 cm to the length.

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When I first finished the skirt I liked it because the material looked elegant and the shape so basic. But as I wore it to work and looked in the mirror, I found it was a shape not so flattering on me – the belly part is pretty roomy and tulip-y. Perhaps the style of this pattern is not supposed to be fitted but I think once I snap out of my laziness I will tinkle with it a bit to make it a bit more fitted.

Thanks for reading! On the sewing table currently is another RDC project:-) Almost the weekend! anything on your sewing table /knitting basket planned for this weekend:-) Happy Independence Day weekend for those in the US:-)

***

前回の記事で予告した通り、またRepublique du Chiffonのパターンを使って洋服を作りました!2点も作りました:-)

まずはその中から比較的に気に入ってる、RDC Anne-Marie top and skirt setのトップスから話しましょう。RDCからSS2014のパターンが出たとき、デザインがあまりにもかわいすぎてほぼのパターンを買いどちらから作ろうかと悩んでいたが、とりあえず仕事用のシンプルな白いトップスがほしくて、このパターンから始めたのです。

生地は昨年の夏に購入したC&Sの海のブロードです。身長にあわせてパターンに2センチの長さを加えました。形はTシャツに見えますが、両サイドにワイシャツの前のようにあきボタンがついています。このルースフィットで四角い形がかなり好きです:-) ペンシルスカートにあわせればオフィスシーンにもぴったりで、この夏はヘビロテしそう(笑)

++このパターンをとても気に入っていますが、なぜか私の場合は身頃がボタンプラケットより1-2センチほど長かった。パターンをパトロン紙に写したときにミスしたのか、と思って再確認したが、どうやらそうでもなかったので不思議でした。縫い代を始末するときに調整すれば完成品に影響がありませんでした。

次は、Un Ete Coutureという同じデザイナーによる本の中のJupe Hotesseを紹介します。こちらはとてもシンプルな形のスカートで、作り方も本当に簡単だった。生地は光沢のあるチノーパン用の生地を使いました。サイズは、ウエイストのサイズに合わせてサイズを選んだのですが、仮縫いのものが大きかったので、結局はSにして、1センチ長さを足しました。夏ですし、裏地を入れるのが面倒だったので、裏地なしのままに仕上がりましたが、静電気で足にくっ付いたりしますので裏地を付けておくべきだったと反省しています。

高級感のある生地で形もシンプルなので、完成したときはとても気に入っていてオフィスには何回も着ていきました。でも、再度鏡でみてみるとなんかぶかぶかで、このチュリップを逆さまにした形に私が似合わないと思うようになった。いつかやる気を出してもうちょっとフィット感のあるものにしたいと思います。

最後まで読んでくださってありがとうございます。もう週末すね〜 私のソーイングルームには、別のRDCのパターンが待っています(笑)皆さんは今週をどうお過ごしされる予定ですか。

 

bonjour Mélanie

(日本語は英文のあとに続きます)

This is my first finished project from the book Un été couture, by Géraldine of République du Chiffon. It is the Robe Mélanie.

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I really love this dress because it is very much my style! Not too dressed up nor feminine, very simple but with a small detail. If you have seen other versions or own the book, you may have noticed that I moved the zipper to the back. I had made a muslin for it with the zipper at the front as per the original design, but in the end preferred it at and moved it to the back. The pattern was well-drafted and very easy to make up.

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Speaking of République du Chiffon, I love the entire paper pattern collection, too! They all look so chic yet classic, I cannot wait to make them all up. Also, I have many projects planned from the Un été couture book, too… I definitely need a couple of jupes hôtesses for work. Since I now work in an office with a more rigid dress code than at my previous job, I cannot wear many of my previous makes to work and I need to adjust my sewing plans accordingly (ie. basic items in conservative colours) if I want them to be items I can wear on the weekdays. This is a little limiting sewing-wise (esp.  since I love Liberty prints and bright colours) but nonetheless I am looking forward to building a stylish me-made work wardrobe. I have even started a Pinterest board to collect ideas for my work wardrobe.

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I made a S graded to M at the waist and added 9 cm in length. The material is a wonderful black linen oxford, which has a sheen and which is not see-through, so I opt for no lining (will wear with a slip instead).

Do you have many opportunities to wear your me-made pieces on weekdays/during the week?

***

République du ChiffonのRobe Mélanieを完成しました。このパターンが Un été coutureというフランス語の洋裁本の中に記載されているもので、簡単であっという間に作れました。同じデザイナーによる封筒に入っているタイプのパターンのシリーズもあり、フランスからの郵送料も含むと少しお値段が張りますが、全部作りたいな〜と思わせるほどかわいいデザインのものばかりです。でもまずはこの本の中に記載されている、シンプルでオフィスににぴったりのスカートなど他のパターンを作ってみようかな?

いまの職場は前の職場に比べてドレスコードがきびしいため、今まで作ったもののほとんどがオフィスに着れなくなった。生地の柄とかきれいな色でインスパイアされて洋服を作ることが多かったが、いまはオフィスにも着ていけそうなデザインと色であるかどうかも考慮して慎重に生地・パターンを選んでいます^^;  最近はPinterestを使ってまでオフィススタイルについて「研究」しているのです。

 このパターンのSを作って(ウエイスト部分はM)、長さを9cm足しました。オリジナルデザインのファスナーは前身頃にあり、それはおしゃれだと思いますが、個人的にはファスナーが後ろにあるほうが好きなので変えました。その他の補正はありません。

みなさん、自分で作ったお洋服を着る機会がたくさんありますか。平日のお用事・お仕事にも着ていますか。

 

 

menswear, first but not last

(日本語が英文の後に続きます。text in Japanese will follow English)

Hello, I hope everyone is enjoying the June weather so far. In Japan June marks the rainy season (rain is forecasted for the whole of next week!) – I don’t mind though, as I love sitting and listening to the rain while knitting or reading (mostly something sewing-related these days:-)

I just finished my first menswear me-made! This is part 1 of 2 of my husband’s birthday present. I had owned the pattern and the fabrics with the intention of making a shirt for my husband for a long time but never got around to it, and finally for my husband’s birthday in April, I was inspired by Andrea of Stitch Parade with her idea to gift the actual fabric and pattern first (actually I gifted the whole sewing book of mens shirt patterns and a bag of fabrics to choose from. I didn’t think my husband would be overly excited actually because he already owns many shirts (he wears a shirt almost every day), but he was a good sport and helped choose two styles of shirts and two fabrics.

Here’s the first shirt, with a wide-spread collar as requested by my husband.

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I used the normal “poking with pointy object” when turning one of the collar points (left in this picture) and this technique with turning the other one (right in this picture) and the one using the special technique is much much neater!

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The check matching tested my patience greatly, but I found some quite useful tutorials online which made things easier and especially found the ideas on Lladybird and Grainline Studio to be great references! Not bad, right?

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Don’t look too close! The sewing was a bit sketchy after long hours of trying to match the checks@_@

The pattern is from the Book of Men’s Shirts by Ryuichiro Shimazaki who is renowned for his Book of Men’s Coats. I could not resist buying this book when I first saw it though I had just started sewing at that time…

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I mean, how neat that you can choose from so many types of collars!

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and cuffs…  buttons too of course

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Super well-illustrated and gives detailed information about each part of the shirt (I never notice until I sewed one up!)

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Here’s number 8 the wide-spread collar model (I ended up using a different cuff)

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my dream is to make this denim shirt one day (the book even has instructions on how to treat your denim to make it look “aged”, and other cool techniques to make the clothing look better.

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But I like this basic one also.

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Fun facts I learned after sewing this shirt/ reading this book. Did you know that the shell buttons of expensive dress shirts are slightly thicker at 4mm than those of regular shirts? The reasons, according the book, are that 1) a slightly thicker button is easier to close with one hand and 2) only a small fraction of shells can grow to a thickness suitable to make 4mm buttons = more rare.

Also, since the collar stand is thicker, the first button is thinner (ie. 2mm) so that it is easier to open/close. I put 4mm (3.5 mm?) ones and a 2mm one for the collar stand.

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Despite having a husband who loves to wear shirts, I never noticed that the first and the last buttonhole of the shirt is horizontal while others are vertical.

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My husband was quite happy with the result! It could have been a little bigger  – but now I know where I have to adjust and hopefully I will be able to make one that fits him better, and get some pictures of the shirt on him!

Despite it not being something for myself, I really enjoyed this project because it was challenging and working with shirting fabric which is so crisp especially after ironing is so satisfying! seeing husband wearing something I sew is of course a great reward too:-)

After this relatively successful make, I would like to make more menswear! I still have one more shirt to make for my husband, and also ordered the “Book of Coats” by the same author.

What kind of project do you enjoy most when it comes to unselfish sewing?

The Book of Men’s Shirts can be found at sew tokyo.

***

もう6月になりましたが、みなさんはいかがお過ごしですか。天気予報によるとずっと雨が続きますが、雨の音を聞きながら編み物したり本を読んだりすることが好きな私にとっては梅雨の季節が決していやじゃありません。

旦那のためにシャツを作りました!もともとパターンの本も生地もその為に買っておいたのですが、怠けてなかなか作る気にのれず時間が経ってしまいました。やっとこの間の旦那の誕生日のときに、買っておいた「材料」のパターンの本と生地をプレゼントして、本の中から好きなシャツの形と生地を2着分選んでもらい、作り始めました。旦那はもう何着も持っているので、このプレゼントを気に入ってもらえるか少し心配だったが結構喜んで自分のカスタムメードシャツのための生地・形を選んでくれました。

一着目は旦那の気に入りの「ワイドスプレッドカラー」に、シンプルなカフスを合わせました。シャツカラーを返すときはこの「職人技」がとても参考になりました。このシャツを作ることにあたり一番大変だったのが柄合わせでした。柄合わせに疲れて、最後はステッチがあまりきれいに縫えてない。。。柄合わせのときはこの二つの海外ブログが結構参考になりました:Lladybird とGrainline Studio

パターンが嶋崎 隆一郎の「男のシャツの本」より。この本がとても素敵だと思います。シャツカラーとカフス、ボタンなどシャツの各パーツについて詳しく説明が書かれているので読んでると結構おもしろいです。知ってましたか?通常のシャツのボタンが2mmであるに比べ、高級シャツには片手で掴みやすい貴重は4mm貝ボタンが使われていること。また、カラースタンドが固めのため、第一ボタンが他に比べ少し薄いものを使うこと。シャツの第一ボタンおよび一番下のボタンホールだけが水平していること。すべて目に鱗。

この本はわかりやすい図がたくさん載っているため、初心者の私でもあまり難なくシャツを作れました。いつか本の中に載っているデニムシャツにチャレンジしてみたいと思います。もう少しサイズの大きいものを作ればよかったようだが、それでも旦那が結構喜んでくれましたので、それを励みに次のシャツに取りかかりたいと思います^^ つい、同じ作者が書いた「男のコートの本」も注文かけちゃいました(笑)

皆さんはプレゼントのためなら何を作るのが一番好きですか。

my sewing room and update

Let me start with what seems like my standard opening line these days- it has been awhile!

The last month I was not only busy with work but we also moved into a new house!  (can you tell I am still very excited about it?!) Not only that, I have my OWN SEWING ROOM!! (I would be doing cartwheels now if I know how to do one:-)

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What’s great about it is that not only does it mean I don’t have to clean up my “sewing studio” for dinner time (my old studio was actually my dining room:-), there is room to store all my sewing books and goodies including my ever-growing fabric stash!

Due to the move, I did not have internet for 3 weeks and had not been able to post or comment on your blogs much but I still really enjoyed reading them on my cellphone – I especially reading about everyone’s Me Made May posts:-)

Before the internet was shutdown, I had been very lucky to have been nominated by Julia of Foam of Days recently. I love reading Julia’s blog ever since I discovered it after reading her great post featuring the cheongsams in In the Mood for Love, so I am quite honoured. I had also luckily received another nomination from the sweet Alia at Au Naturel Essence – whose blog about natural skincare is very interesting –  awhile back so I decided to thank them together in this post:-) Thank you Julia and Alia for your nominations!!

My answers to Alia’s questions:
1.  How do you keep your skin clean and fresh?  I try to keep it simple to soap and a basic moisturiser

2.  If you could travel to one place in the world, where would it be?  Where my loved ones are!

3.  What is your favourite animal? for some reason polar bear comes to mind first

4.  What is your favorite type of food? soft-boiled eggs or anything with egg in it:-)

5.  How do you motivate yourself to get difficult tasks done? haha, I wish I knew the answer… I guess by sandwiching interesting tasks in between

6.  How many times do you wash your hair in a week? 4-5

7.  Who do you admire the most and why? my family – because they are them!

8.  What is your favorite brand of make up? recently I like Clinique (presented by Mom:-)

9.  What is the one word that describes you the best? …thoughtful? (deep in thought)

10.  What is your favorite book?  Sense and Sensibility

Julia encouraged her nominees to write about something they have not blogged about before, so I will write about the recent smoothie-making craze which has over-taken my husband and I since we bought a mixer at the supermarket after the move. It is quite fun, but we haven’t been able to make any great smoothies yet (was too lazy to try to Google recipe using iPhone). If anyone has any great recipes to recommend, please share!

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I am not sure how to check the number of readers but here are some blogs I like to read/nominate:

La Petite Maison Couture – very stylish lady in France who makes trendy clothing like something bought from a Maison!

Except the Shoes* – I like the clever name of this stylish sewing/knitting blog a lot!

Tangled Up in Blue – Kontanze blogs about sewing and she has many pieces of beautiful hand knitted clothing

Alison Rea Mason – a lady sewing and knitting in Canada- look at this beautiful green skirt she made with self-dyed fabric

Linnae Design – blog of a young designer in Germany  – beautiful photography and inspiring creations

The rules of the Liebster award are here but my question-formulating skills are not better than my question answering skill… so please just tell us about your favourite something lately:-) ie. favourite sewing pattern, favourite knitting pattern, favourite SMOOTHIE? favourite yarn? favourite way to spend the summer?

Thank you for reading!

***

ご無沙汰しています。最近の記事がすべて似たような挨拶からはじまるような気がします(汗)

このたびはGW中に引越をしました!近所への引越だったので、そこまで大変ではなかったが、業者さんが工事に来てくれるまでの3週間インターネットが使えなかったので違う意味で大変だった。でも、引越してよかったです。なぜなら、新しい住まいには、私のソーイング・ルームがあるからだ♪

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今まではダイニングテーブルの上に作業をしていたので、夕食のたびにミシンを移動したり、型紙を片付けたりしないといけなかったので、プロジェクトがなかなか進まなかったが、今後は専用のテーブル(ミシン用ともう1台、合計2台)があり、山ほどある布がちゃんと収まるクロゼットスペースもあり、ソーインググッツと洋裁本もすべて同じ部屋にあるので、作業がとてもしやすくなりました!

引越でインターネットが使えなかった、洋裁ブログを変わらぬ(ネットがない間は携帯で)愛読していました!特に皆さんのMe Made Mayの記事は楽しみにして読んでいます^^

最近は、Liebster AwardにFoam of DaysのJulia さんとAu Naturel EssenceのAliaがノミネートしてくださったのでありがたく受賞します。「受賞」するにあたり、まずは①聞かれる質問に答えて、それから②新たに5つのブログをノミネートする必要があります。早速ですが、私がノミネートするブログをご紹介します。

La Petite Maison Couture – フランスでお住まいでとてもスタイリッシュな方の洋裁ブログ

Except the Shoes* – 「靴以外なんでも(作る)」という素敵な名前を持つ素敵なブログ

Tangled Up in Blue – Kontanze さんが書いている洋裁&編み物のブログ。彼女の編み物の作品コレクションがうらやましい!

Alison Rea Mason – カナダに住んでいる方の洋裁&編み物ブログ。私は特にこのスカートの作品が好きです。

Linnae Design – ドイツに住んでいるデザイナーさんのブログ。数々の洋服の作品も、写真もとても素敵です。

読んでいただきありがとうございました!

 

wiggle dress

日本語が英文のあとに続きます(text in Japanese below)

Hello!  I am happy  to finally share a new me-made item!  It has been a loooong while since I completed my last item, because I had been experimenting with vintage patterns.

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This is made from the vintage pattern Butterick 2137 – view C. It is not the first time I made a vintage pattern but since the last time, I have gotten more picky with getting the right fit, and took a long time trying to adjust the pattern pieces to fit me.  All in all, with the multiple times dissecting /retaping the pattern/muslin testing, etc. and it took 4 weekends to complete.

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My high bust measurement is closest to those of a Size 12 in vintage, and this pattern I own happens to be a Size 12!  According to the measurements, I should add more width to the bust and waist on a Size 12, but when I test-made a muslin without any changes, the bust was very roomy already (or the pattern has big armholes?)! I already read about the 50s and early 60s patterns having a larger bust, but one more thing I notice (and I haven’t found confirmation on the internet) is that the patterns are also made to have more room in the bodice back than modern patterns? I don’t know if this is  just me… The vintage patterns I have worked with seem slightly curved in the centre back seams (which I assume is to provide more room at the back) rather than a relatively straight line I see in the modern patterns I have used. I ended up straightening the back seam and decreasing the width of the bust line (instead of doing SBA), but I am not sure if this is the correct way to go about decreasing back /bust ease. If you have any tips on this issue, please let me know:-)

Despite all the time tweaking the pattern and the two muslins, the fit is not very good. As you can see from the pictures fabric is pulling in different directions since I decreased a bit too much at the bust and also at waist, while the tummy part looks roomy.

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I like the kick-pleat detail!

I had in my mind a below-the-knee length from the start – but was not sure if it will be a flattering look on me. In trying to figure out skirt length, I came across this enlightening post on how to calculate your ideal skirt length! Very fascinating and interesting to see there is math behind it:-)  According to the post, a skirt length slightly above the knee works best for me, and it explains why I tend to choose skirts of that length! However, in the end, for this project I decided to stick to the below-the-knee length I had planned, for some variety in my closet. ***After looking at the pictures again I think I will hack off a bit more length!***

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The neck is a little high – next time I would like to try a lower neck version of this dress.

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The fabric is a lightweight Italian grey wool suiting I bought at the closing sale of Marunan fabric store in Shibuya.  It has a beautiful sheen and is lightweight enough for a dress. The lining is Bemberg rayon. They are both from my stash:-)

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This is my sketch in Fashionary – I find it very useful not only for planning fabrics /projects, but also to keep track of the many changes to the pattern I make as long as how long each project takes me.

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I love buying vintage patterns and while I am not very satisfied with the fit of this project, I am happy I finished it because there are still many vintage patterns I want to test!

Butterick 2137 – challenge somewhat conquered!

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Quick facts:

Pattern: Vintage Butterick 2137 in Size 12

Fabric: Italian grey wool suiting / blue rayon Bemberg for lining

Adjustments: 

Lengthwise: Necklined dropped by 0.5 cm / back kick pleat moved down by 7 cm / added 0.7 cm length between bodice and skirt / chopped hem by 7 cm (to leave 4 cm  to hem)

Widthwise: Bust decreased by -5.6 cm / Waist +1.2 cm / Hip + 0.4 cm /move darts out 0.7 cm so they return to original position as they were before resizing)

 

****************************

こんにちは!久々に記事をアップできることをうれしく思っています。ここ1ヶ月はヴィンテージパターンに挑戦->失敗の繰り返しでお披露目できるものがなかったのですが、やっと新しいワンピース1着できました♪

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こちらはヴィンテージパターンButterick 2137 – view Cから作ったワンピースです。以前もヴィンテージパターンを使ったことがありますが、洋裁を始めてから1年以上経つ今は洋服のフィット感にかなりこだわるようになったので、昔の体型のために作られたヴィンテージパターンを自分の体型にあわせるよう補正するのに結構時間がかかりました。週末にしか作業ができないため、パターン補正+仮縫い(x2)+本縫いで合計1ヶ月かかりました。

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今回使ったパータンはサイズ12のもので、サイズチャートと自分の寸法を比較してみると、バストとウエスト部分をパターンより少し大きくしないといけないはずですが、パターンを補正しないままとりあえず仮縫いを作ってみると、バストは大きくするべきところが、パターンのままでももう既に大きすぎました。原因は50年代、60年代は弾丸の形をしたブラが流行ってた頃で、洋服のバスト周りが現代の物に比べ大きかったわけです。バストだけではなく、今まで利用したヴィンテージパターンは、背中もゆったりめに作られているような気がしますが、気のせいかな?補正の仕方があってるかどうかわかりませんが、今回はバスト周りの幅を縮めるために身頃全体の幅とまず縮め、その後はウエストとヒップに再度幅を足しました。

バストの幅を少し縮めすぎたのに加え、ウエストの幅もゆるみが足りなかったため、全体的のフィットが残念ながらあまりよくないです。また、パターンをどう操作すれば下腹部のゆるみが減少できるかわからなかったので、今回はこのままにしておきました。

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後ろのキックプリーツが気に入っているポイント☆

このドレスの長さを決めるまで時間が経ちました。膝上のスカートが好きですが、膝上の物ばかり持っているしパターンのパッケージに書かれているイメージ通りに仕上がりたかったので、膝下に決めました。ちなみに、自分の体型に一番似合っているスカートの長さを、足の長さを計って計算できる方法がこのサイトで書かれているのでご興味のある方はぜひご参考ください。

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ネックラインが少し高めです。次回は深い襟くりversionをトライしたいと思います。

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灰色のイタリア製薄手ウール生地はマルナンの閉店セールで購入しました。裏地は以前買ったベンベルグ。

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Fashionaryを活用しています♪スケッチブックとしてはもちろん、パターン補正の詳細やプロジェクトのスタート日と最終日を記録するにも便利です☆

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ヴィンテージパターンが大好きなので、フィット感があまりよくないのは残念だけどやっとこのワンピースが完了できたことがうれしい:-)

Butterick 2137 (とりあえず完成!)

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Grace Dressmaking さんの The Summer Dress Sewalongに参加する予定ですが、その際はヴィンテージパターンに再挑戦しようかな?皆さんもThe Summer Dress Sewalongに参加しませんか。

Quick facts:

パターン: Vintage Butterick 2137 サイズ12

生地:表地:イタリアン ウール / 裏地:ペンベルグ

補正箇所: 

ネックライン:0.5 cm 広げる / キックプリーツ 7cm下に動かす / 身頃とスカートの間に0.7 cmを足す/ スカートの長さを-8cm (ヘム=4cm)

バスト: -5.6 cm / ウエスト +1.2 cm / ヒップ + 0.4 cm 

 

yarn shopping in Vancouver with my knitting Sensei

(日本語は英文のあとに続きます。Text in Japanese will follow English)

While I was in Vancouver last month, I went on a yarn shopping tour with my knitting Sensei (teacher) – aka my Mom^^ aka my gardening Sensei

My mother knitted all the sweaters, mittens and scarves for my sister and I when we were young, so we had cute knitwear since we could remember. She also taught us how to knit with little plastic knitting needles for kids… unfortunately at that time we preferred more exciting games over knitting. She has even knitted for a designer knitwear label!

She has since then stopped knitting for awhile, but after I started knitting recently she also started to get hooked onto knitting again:-) Here are some of her latest creations. As a novice myself, I find it truly amazing how she can knit without a pattern, use up left over yarns in creative ways, coming up with patterns while she knits, knit even stitches that look like they are knit by machine, etc… incredible!

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This grey one is an RTW which was taken apart and re-knitted by my mom (the ribbed sleeves were left as is). I like the “angle” detail!

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Creative use of the one leftover skein of blue Malabrigo which I sent:-)

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Here are the yarn shops we went to:

Three Bags Full
4458 Main Street, Vancouver, BC, Canada V5V 3R3
Tel : 604-874-9665

Urban Yarns
4437 West 10 Avenue Vancouver, BC, Canada V6R 2H8
Tel: 604-228-1122

Wet Coast Wools
2923 West 4th Avenue, Vancouver, BC, Canada V6K 1R3
Tel: 604-568-0011

Urban Yarns had the most extensive collection, including Malabrigo, Madelinetosh, Spud and Chloe… the list goes on and on. There is also the homegrown Sweet Georgia Yarns. After drooling in the shop for 20 minutes or so, I finally left with a skein of Swiss Silk by another local label Handmaiden (it is part of Fleece Artist). The colors in shimmery silks were all so beautiful, but at around CAD $40 for a skein of 400m, it was quite an indulgence so I only bought one skein to make a small scarf or wrap with. If you have not seen the Handmaiden site, please take a look! I guess it is because the silk is so shimmery, which makes the colours soooo beautiful…

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My Mom and I really had fun at Three Bags Full! As I mentioned, I thought Urban Yarns had a more extensive selection, but Three Bags Full had a very inviting, local atmosphere, and a large sale bin:-) We ended up buying some beautiful yarns, at 30% off regular price from the sale bin.

Can you imagine these beauties were in the sale bin?

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Ancient Arts BFL 4-ply fingering in Lodgewood Pine

With these beautiful yarns, I am currently working on Light Trails, the latest pattern by Suvi Sivola. The pattern is very well-written and I have had no trouble with it so far. I can’t wait to finish it and wear it before it gets warm! My knitting Sensei also bought the same yarns (in colorway Salal Jungle which is a brighter green) and is working on this pattern which I also find beautiful.

Can’t wait to go for more yarn shopping in Vancouver with my knitting Sensei again:-)!

Do you usually buy your yarns at a local shop or over the internet? If you have any recommended shops, please share!

***

先月、バンクーバーに帰省したとき、私の編み物の先生であり園芸の先生でもある母親と毛糸を買いに行ってきました!

母親はもともと編み物が大好きで、私と妹が子どもの頃、よく素敵なセーターとかマフラーを編んでくれました。子ども用の編み棒を買って私たちにもそのスキルを伝授しようとしたが、子どもの頃の私があまり編み物に興味をわかなかった。その母親ですが、有名なニットデザイナーからデザインの商品化をお願いされるほど、編むのが上手です。

その後はしばらく手を休んでいましたが、最近は私が編み物に夢中になってから母親も再度編み始めました:-) 初心者の私は、パターンもみる必要がない、パターンがなくても自分にぴったりなセーターなりカーディガンなり編める母親が本当にすごいと思っています。

これらは母親の最新作です。高い毛糸を買わず、あちらこちらで残っている毛糸を使ったり、古いセーターをリメイクするのが私の母のスタイルです。

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グレイのセーターは古いものからのリメイク(袖の下の部分はオリジナルのものを残して)

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使えきれなかったMalabrigoの毛糸を実家に送ったら、母親がそれを使って素敵なカーディガンを作りました!

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私にとっては、もう魔法使いに領域だといっても過言でありません。

この3軒に母親と足を運びました。

Three Bags Full
4458 Main Street, Vancouver, BC, Canada V5V 3R3
Tel : 604-874-9665

Urban Yarns
4437 West 10 Avenue Vancouver, BC, Canada V6R 2H8
Tel: 604-228-1122

Wet Coast Wools
2923 West 4th Avenue, Vancouver, BC, Canada V6K 1R3
Tel: 604-568-0011

Urban Yarnsさんは一番セレクションが充実していました。Malabrigo, Madelinetosh, Spud and Chloe…その他のブランドもたくさんおいてあります。カナダのブランドであるのSweet Georgia Yarnsももちろんおいてある。店内で20分ほどいろいろみて悩んだあげく、同じくカナダのブランドのHandmaidenFleece Artistのサブブランド)のSwiss Silkを1点購入。1玉(1 skein @ 400m) がカナダドル$40で高めですが、シルキーで本当にきれいな発色がとても魅力的で思わず買いました。とても素敵なストールができると思います。

momknit5

私たちが一番楽しかったお店がThree Bags Fullでした。毛糸のセレクションはUrban Yarnsほど豊富ではなかったが、それでもかなり素敵で十分に豊富なセレクションがあって、雰囲気がにぎやかで居心地がとてもよかったです。お店の億にある30%〜50%オフのセールコーナーもかなりセレクションがよかった!私と母親は結局、1人3玉ずつセールコーナーから買っちゃいました:-)

こんなに素敵な毛糸が30%オフで買えるのは本当にラッキーでした♪

momknit4

Ancient Arts BFL 4-ply fingering in Lodgewood Pine

この毛糸を使って、Suvi Sivolaさんの最新パターンLight Trailsを編んでいます。大変よく書かれたパターンで、いままで全然問題なく編んでいます。暖かくなる前に編み終えたいよ〜

ちなみに私の母親は同じ毛糸の”Salal Jungle”というもう少し明るい緑の毛糸を3玉買って、このとても素敵なパターンを編んでいます。

次の帰省でまた母親と毛糸ショッピングに行くことを楽しみ♪♪

海外の毛糸は皆さんはどうやって手に入れていますか。