Charlotte

Hello everyone, I hope you are well. I am back with another me-made item! Actually, I completed it a few weeks back but was quite tight, and I finally mustered up enough will power to alter it the past weekend.

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This skirt is made from the pattern “Charlotte” of By Hand London, made using a Japanese wool pin stripe stretch fabric.

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I still remember when I first read about this pattern from Reanna Louise on her blog – her “End of the World” skirt. I had always loved pencil skirts and want to make one exactly this shape and ending below the knee.

It was very simple to put together. I used the same sizes as for my Anna dress and it was fine in the muslin stage, but when I made it in the actual fabric and lined it, it became too small at the hip, so I took apart the sides and widened it by 1 cm on each side (meaning I had to sew with a 0.5 cm seam allowance on each side… yikes… a little scared when I sit down that the seam would not hold up but so far it has been fine).  Lengthwise, I shortened by 3 cm before where the kick pleat starts, and then hemmed off by turning 3 cm (zigzag stitched edge) to the inside.

The only adjustment I did was to add a kick-pleat (using the pattern instructions from this dress). I am glad I did! It is a bit restricting to walk even with the kick-pleat because of the shape of this skirt, I don’t think I would have managed to walk in this skirt if I had made it without a slit/kick-pleat, despite the fabric having stretch content.

Here’s the skirt with black shoes (this will become my office outfit:-). I am so happy with this skirt because I can wear it on and off work. My only dissatisfaction is with those funny wrinkles around the darts… I think it is because I did not line up the fabrics well enough, or stretched it when sewing? I tried to take the darts apart and re-sewed it hoping to eliminate this issue, but the wrinkles remain… I also made each dart 1 cm longer to see if it would change things… but the puckers/wrinkles remained.

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If anyone has any advice on what I can do to solve the wrinkle at darts issue, I would love to hear from you! I hope to make more skirts from the same pattern and hopefully my next version would be pucker/wrinkle-free!

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Thank you for reading! I wish you a wonderful rest of the week ahead:-)

 ***

こんにちは。また新しい洋服を作っちゃいました!実はこのスカートを作ったのは2〜3週間前ぐらいですが、完成品がけっこうきつかったので、しばらく放置してしまいました。先週末は(オフィスに着るものがだんだんなくなったこともあって)やっと重い腰を上げてヒップ周りをもう少し緩くしました。

今回使ったパターンがBy Hand Londonの”Charlotte Skirt”です。以前は一度同じデザイナーの”Anna”というパターンを使ってドレスを作ったことがあるので、前回使ったのと同じサイズでスカートを作りましたが、ヒップ部分がきつくて、結局両側を1cmずつ大きくしました(両側の縫い代がそれで0.5cmまで減ってしまったので、いつか破れないかドキドキ…いまはまだ大丈夫ですが(笑)このパターンをそのまま使うとできあがりが長過ぎると以前ほかのブログで読んだことがあるので、予めに3cmを(間中ぐらいから)カットしました。裾もまた3cmあげました。生地は表がウールストレッチを1mぐらい使って、中はベンバーグです。

このパターンにはスリット(切り込み)がないですが、以前使ったヴィンテージパターンで学んだ「キックプリーツ」を入れました。入れてよかったです。キックプリーツを入れてもタイトスカートなので、若干歩きにくいです。キックプリーツが入ってなかったらおそらくこのスカートが家の外でデビューする機会がないでしょう。

オンでもオフでも使えそうで、気に入っています。別の色のも欲しくなりました。こういう簡単で作れるシンプルで着回しも効くのがいいですね!唯一気になるのは、左側のダーツがうまくできてないところかな?かなり気になっていたので、一度前のダーツを解いて縫い直したが、まったく改善されなかった。前のダーツを1cmずと長くしたが、それでもやはり気になる…もし改善方法がわかる方がいらっしゃいましたら、教えていただけると大変助かります。

読んでいただきありがとうございました!

jump for joy jacket

日本語は英文の後に続きます。For Japanese readers, Japanese text will follow after the English.

Hello again, we had a lovely sunny weekend and I spent a lot of time out running errands. The temperature in Tokyo is perfect right now, just chilly enough for a trench coat and the air smells sweet of fragrant olives (osmanthus). I love this time of the year! What is even better, from September to December each year, there are one or two public holidays a month:-)

Getting back to sewing, I am very happy to show my Jump for Joy jacket! I don’t name every item I sew but I really jumped for joy when I finished this, hence the name:-)

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It is Jacket O. (Veste O.) from the Japanese pattern book Casual Sweet Clothes which is already published in French as Exclusivement Feminin and now also in English! It was one of the first sewing books I bought and it is still my favourite.

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This was a super quick sew!  The whole project from tracing pattern to finish took 1.5 days! I really love this book… the instructions are so detailed, and the details of each item make them look special yet are so easy to make. The items look very chic yet are also great for work. With this one, I think the flounces make it look special enough to wear to a dinner party yet is also suitable for the office.

The back view… awkward taking a picture of self facing the wall…but for the sake of documentation:-)

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I did not make a muslin and went straight to business because I made a pattern from the same book before and know approximately how the Size 7 (XS) fit, and also know that the instructions would “hand-hold” me enough to not require a practice run. I did between Size 7 (XS) and Size 9 (XS) (by measurements I am definitely Size 9) but since I have narrow shoulders and since the jacket is not supposed to close anyway, I went with the 7.

I think it fits well! The only adjustment I did is to lengthen the pattern by 3 cm (I thought by adding 1 cm at the armhole level which translates to an added 2 cm for finished armhole might make them too big, but they are fine to me).

Actually, the dress inside is from the same book (Dress A)! This is the 4th item I made since I learned to sew, and still remains in my closet and still gets a lot of wear – though I had not much idea about sewing at the time, by following this book I was able to make this dress which I am still quite proud of today:-)

I am happy I can wear this to the office, too!

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I used a cotton satin, which is what is recommended in the book, in very dark, almost black navy blue. I am so glad I did because the flounces turned out exactly like in the book!

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I have gushed about the actual quality of the sewing patterns /styles in this book but let me also gush about the styling in the book. Though many Japanese sewing books have great aesthetics, this one tops it in my book! I love the juxtaposition – ie. skirt with sneakers, dressy jacket with jeans, etc… (heart!)

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***

こんにちは。週末は東京が晴れて気分も上々でした〜 自転車で近所を走って用事を済まし、近くのお祭りを少し見に行ったりしたあと、お菓子を買い溜めてソーイングを開始しました!

Burdastyle等海外の「旬」のパターンに惹かれ、持っている日本の洋裁本は本棚に眠ったままだったが、久々に私の一番好きな、笹原のりこさんの「さりげなく甘い服」を開いてみると、やはりこういうシンプルで流行に左右されないデザインがいいなあ〜、この本から何か作ろうと思いました。

この本は、オンでもオフでも着れそうなアイテムばかりで、本当に素敵なのです。今回は[O]のジャケットの7号を作りました。寸法をみると9号を選ぶべきだったが肩幅がせまいし、ファスナーやボタンで閉じるわけでもないので7号にし、着丈に3cm足しました。生地は本のモデルさんが着ているのと同じ素材であるコットンサテンを使いました。

職場に着れるかわいいジャケットをずっと作ってみたかったので、やっと実現できて本当にうれしいです。しかも、本の説明がわかりやすく、今回は仮縫いもなしにしたので、パターンを写しはじめてから完成まで1日半しかかからなかったです。

実は中に着ているダンガリーのワンピースも同じ本から(ドレスA)のものです♪

皆さんはお気に入りの洋裁本がありますか。良かったら教えてください!

Vancouver and an oversized sweater

*日本語は英文の後に続きます。For readers from Japan, Japanese text will follow below.*

Hello! I had been sewing a lot, but while I wanted to write there hasn’t been much finished to show. I am almost finished with a project  - hope that I will be able to show it here soon!

I recently took another trip to Vancouver and a visit to my knitting Sensei (a.k.a. Mom) It was a relaxing visit and I loved going to buy yarn and talking about knitting with her:-)  I have a soft spot for hand-dyed yarns which are not so easy to come by in Japan, so I felt like I was running into a candy store when I went into the local yarn store Three Bags Full (which I also went to on my last visit). I really love this store – it carries many local yarns which I have never heard of online –  the yarns are all very beautiful and I had a hard time deciding which ones to take home.

I finally decided on these skeins from Raincity Knits. They are very squishy and soft. This brand actually has a lot of very saturated fluorescent colorways too, which would look cool for accessories, I think – the owner of the brand dyed her yarns in bright colors as “an antidote to the endless grey skies in the West Coast”:-). I bought enough for a sweater/shawl for myself and also a scarf for hubby, too.

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I also had my eye on some yarns from Tanis Fiber Arts. The colours are stunning and I could not decide which ones to buy!  I am relieved they have international shipping as I probably want to buy some for my next project:-)

During my time in Vancouver I also finished the sweater I was knitting – Light Trails by Suvi Simola - using yarns I bought on my last trip to this city.  The actual pattern – a chic oversized sweater with three-quarter sleeves – is very beautiful. I decided to modify the sleeves and knit full-length ones to combat the cold. Now I see why the designer made her pattern quarter-length sleeved, they look much better that way! The veeerrry long sleeves on my version just make it look too oversized. I hope to show this again when I have gotten around to shortening the sleeves.

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A close-up of my knitting Sensei’s garden - I am so impressed that there are still so many bright and beautiful flowers in October!

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I started using the newly acquired yarn to work on my next project – a shawl/sweater from a Japanese pattern book. Hopefully an update and more pictures on that soon:-)

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Thank you for reading!

***

ご無沙汰しております。2ヶ月ぶりの更新ですが、理由は…大好きなソーイングの失敗の繰り返しで、この場で披露する新しい作品もなくしばらく更新を休んでしまいました。気持ちを改めてまた新しいソーイングプロジェクトを始めましたので今度はぜひ成功してこの場で披露したいと思います^^

この間はまだバンクーバーに行ってきました♪母親(私の編み物の先生)と一緒に毛糸が売っているお店に行ったり、編み物の話をしたりしてとても楽しかったです。母親は相変わらず編むのが早く、私が滞在した一週間の間に私のために編んでいたセーターを完成させました。日本ではなかなか見つからないhand-dyed (手染め)毛糸を販売しているお店が比較的に多いからバンクーバーでの毛糸を購入するのがとても好きです。私の一番のお気に入りのお店は以前も話しましたThree Bags Fullという、主に地元の素敵なヤーンブランドがおいてあって、質のよいスペシャルな毛糸たちといっぱい出会える良いお店です。

今回はずいぶん迷っていた結果、地元バンクーバーのブランド、Raincity Knitsの毛糸を、自分のセーターの分と旦那のマフラー分を購入しました。すごくふわふわした手触りで、完成品を着るのをいまから楽しみにしています^^今回は無難の紺色を購入しましたが、このブランドはこのような落ちづいているきれいな色のほかに、「雲の日でも元気になれる鮮やか」な蛍光色の毛糸も展開しています。その他、同じお店でTanis Fiber Artsというモントリオールのヤーンブランドの毛糸も気になりました。色が本当にきれいで、色を決めれず結局買いませんでした(涙)

バンクーバーに滞在していた間にずっと編んでいたLight Trails by Suvi Simola(こちらも前回Three Bags Fullで購入した毛糸を使って)を完成させました・・・が・・・袖が長い。このパータンの7分袖とオーバーサイズの感じがおしゃれで気に入ったのに、寒がりやの私がついデザインのバランスのことを忘れて長い〜袖にしてしまいました。やはりこのままだとだぼだぼでせっかくの素敵なデザインの台無しなので、袖を短くしてまたこの場でお披露目をしたいと思います。

その前に、ゲットした毛糸で早速新しいプロエジェクトを始めました。日本の編み物本のパターンです。詳しくはまた追ってこちらでお話したいと思います♪

読んでいただきありがとうございました!

life recently and COTTON FRIEND Autumn 2014

日本語は英文のあとに続きます。For my Japanese readers, Japanese text will follow the English.

It has been awhile since my last post and I quite missed updating this blog. Work is taking up a lot of my time these days. My job is enjoyable, but I hope to find a better balance to have more time to sew/knit and to work on this blog!

I had been working on two projects (another shirt for my husband, and a Republique du Chiffon Robe Marie from Un Ete Couture) but I could not stay on course to complete them. The former it was because the fabric shifted easily and the check patterns on the two fronts of the shirt ended up not matching, and with Robe Marie, I used a beautiful but delicate linen lawn, which combined with the difficulty of the pattern made for a sad fail:(  Oh well, now that it is coming to the end of the summer, I am looking forward to start making fall/winter items! I am almost finished making another shirt (this time in a good quality cotton chambray to save myself from check-matching:-), and I also cut the pattern for the Republique du Chiffon Veste Bernadette which is a Chanel-style jacket:-) so excited to get it done!! Another item I hope to work on soon is the Burdastyle Seamed Shift Dress 08/2014 #104B. So pretty!

My new work schedule has not discouraged me from spending time in the sewing book corner of bookshops in the free time I have. In fact, I think I have accumulated a lot of books over the last two months.

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Here’s a peek at the latest issue of Cotton Friend. This is the first time I have really looked at this magazine, and I quite like this issue! It is different from FEMALE (by the same publisher and is currently no longer published) in that the style is more simple. My initial impression of the magazine (before I opened one finally) was that it was full of shapeless smocks, but I did find many items in there I like which attracted me to buy this issue.

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cottonfriend092014_3 This checked shirt on the left-hand page is the first pattern which attracted me to buy the magazine. It will probably look nice in a crisp fabric for work as well.

cottonfriend092014_4I am a sucker for hoodie patterns:-)

cottonfriend092014_5The long jacket seems like a useful pattern to have, and I love the orangey ensemble! I don’t know if i have any use for it but I like the styling!!

cottonfriend092014_6This is one of the featured patterns – and it is turned into many different styles. I don’t dislike it at all:-) It is versatile like the Colette Laurel, which is actually one of the items I wear the most on weekends (I am thinking of making a black one to wear to work, perhaps with a belt).

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cottonfriend092014_8Instructions for featured pattern (the top/dress above) comes with step by step instructions with photos!

cottonfriend092014_10 I like top #28 – those frill details add a nice touch!

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I like #34 – kind of like a piece from A.P.C.:-) That shirt on #31 is cute too but it is RTW with no pattern included (the skirt, which is also very nice, is a pattern included with the magazine).

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The hoodie again, this time in zip-up form! ^_^

Lastly, a good collection of cosmetic bags, pouches and purses which I would love to make for friends and family if I have the time! they all look so nice…

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How lovely are these pin cushions and mini Le Creuset-like containers:-) heart-eyed…

cottonfriend092014_18I hope you enjoyed the review! Cotton Friend Autumn 2014 is available at sew tokyo.

Have you started sewing for Autumn yet or are you still working on summer items? (after seeing Cecili’s beautiful little white dress as well as Sarai’s white linen Laurel I am a little tempted to sway from my sewing plans and make my own Little White Dress before summer ends:-)

***

ご無沙汰しています。最近は残業の日々が続いてなかなかソーイングや編み物をする時間、このブログを更新する時間も少なくなりました。もう少しで落ちづくことを期待しています^^

前回の記事を書いてから、旦那のためにシャツと自分のためにRepublique du Chiffon のRobe Marieの製作に励んでいたが、両方もうまく行かず失敗作で終わってしまった。まあ、もうすぐ秋なのでこれからは秋冬向けのアイテムに集中することにしました。

旦那のために秋冬用のシャンブレーシャツはもうすぐで完成、そして自分用のシャネル風ジャケット風ジャケット(型紙はRepublique Du ChiffonのVeste Bernadette)もいよいよ仮縫い作成のステージまでたどり着きました^_^ (身長があるので市販の型紙に「長さ」を足す作業がかなり時間がかかります。。。)時間があればBurdastyleのSeamed Shift Dress 08/2014 #104Bも素敵で作りたいなあ〜

気分転換のためか、最近は本屋を通るたびにソーイングや編み物の本を買ってしまっています。本だから、少し奮発してもよいかな?コットンフレンドは今回はじめて購入しました。いままでは「スモックばかり」「ナチュラル系」のイメージを持っていたので本屋でみかけても手にとったことがないが、フード付きパーカーやカジュアル目のシャツ、きれいなラインのスモックなど、使えそうなパターンが入っているので気に入っています。スタイリングも素敵ですね!

皆さんは、もう秋冬の準備をし始めましたか。私は昨日まではそのつもりで動いていたが、CeciliさんSaraiさんのかわいすぎる夏の白いワンピースをみて、私も夏が終わる前に白いワンピースを作りたくなっちゃった(笑):-)

Marine Top on Marine Day

日本語は英文のあとに続きます。

Hi everyone!

It’s the end of the three-day weekend in Japan (Marine Day today!) Instead of going to the beach, I spent another relaxing day at home sewing and house-making:-) Sounds a little unbelievable especially for those who know me, but I start to enjoy doing chores quite a bit since moving to our new house.

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Anyway, what  a better way to end Marine Day by sharing with you my marine knit top, which I just finished blocking today! It is pattern K from Kazekobo’s Simple Summer Knits and I used a Japanese yarn which is a cotton/linen blend, as well as a cotton lace yarn (the pattern tells you to use the colour yarn and the off-white lace yarn at once so you get a specked effect).  I made it exactly according to the book, in the same colours too! Not because I was lazy per say but I like this colour combination (my husband, however, has a different opinion^^;

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It is super simple to knit but it was a pain to have to change yarns every 8 rows. Also, I don’t know what I did wrong but the neckline part is not the prettiest… there was a point I became so frustrated I thought about giving up but I am glad I followed through to finish it. It looked pretty puffy and like something I would not wear after I knitted it, thank goodness wet-blocking flattened it and made it a lot nicer!!  The pattern is one-size fits all, and I think the fit is not too bad:D

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Sorry for the blurry pictures…. I was so excited about finding this new photo spot in our house! On the display on the camera they didn’t look so blurry…

And in case you are wondering why I am not wearing my shoes… I tried but couldn’t put them on in time for the 15-second camera timer:P

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As usual, let me introduce the book I used while I am at it. I bought the book last summer and now looking back it is interesting to see how my taste changed in one year… the things I want to make now are completely different from those I wanted to make last year (though the Breton is still high on my list for this year too!)

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This lacey vest was on my to-make list last year.

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I still want to make this Breton top!

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Love the waffle-ly texture of this vest/shawl.

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On last year’s to do list.

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Again, love this interesting texture…

marineknit18 hey, my top!

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Love this retro-looking scarf.

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I used to think that knitting is only for the winter season and there is no need for knitted items in the summer but I proved myself wrong! This year I have been wearing every weekend the lacey linen top I made last summer (and which I am guilty of labelling “meh, it’s not very me” in my 2013 round up…)  I am already planning another summer knit project for this year!

And how about you, any summer items on your knitting needles currently?

Kazekobo’s Simple Summer Knits is available at sew tokyo.

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みなさんは何をして三連休を過ごしましたか。私は、海に行かないでずっと家かその近所にいて編み物したり、洋服を作ったりしてすごくのんびりして過ごしました。編んでいたセーターを編み終えて、ブロッキングし、ちょうど海の日の今日、夏らしいボーダーセーターが完成しました!

上記の英文のほうで記載されている「風工房のシンプル夏ニット、こもの」のパターンKのフレンチスリーブセーターで、ワンサイズです。本に記載されている作品の色を気に入り、そのままマネしちゃいました!この作品はハマナカフラックスKとハマナカポームレースを各1本の2本取りで編みます。

メリヤス編みとガーター編みのみのパターンなので、簡単でしたが8段毎に毛糸を変えるのが面倒でした。また、えりぐりの部分はなかなかうまく進めず途中であきらめそうだったが、やっと編み終えたことにほっとしました。ブロッキングする前はフレンチスリーブがパフスリーブのようにみえ、「時間をいっぱいかけて作ったのに、これは着れないな、、、」と心配しましたが、ブロッキングが終わったらちゃんとしたフレンチスリーブのトップスになりました。

いつもセルフタイマーで写真をとっているのですが、今日に限ってほぼすべての写真のピントが合わなかった:-( また、今日選んだ靴は、履くのに時間がかかりすぎてセルフタイマーの最長時間(15秒)に設定しても間に合わなかったので、裸足で、、、(笑)

編み物は冬の趣味と考えがちですが、リネンやコットンの毛糸を使ったセーターとカーディガンなら軽くて涼しくて夏に着ても全然OKだと思います。昨年の夏に初めて編んだリネンセーター(昨年はまったくといっていいほど着なかったのに)を今年の夏ヘビロテしているし、ファストファッションのお店で買う冷房対策用のカーディガンより自分で編んだ方がずっと大切にできると思います。

みなさんは、この夏何か編んでいますか。

Mrs Stylebook Mid-Summer 2014

The newest issue of Mrs. Stylebook. A pretty good one!

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The designer patterns are always the “selling point” of these magazines, I believe, with patterns from actual clothing brands. This time, the brands featured were “Tiravento” and “I-na”. I quite like the red dress (I would make it in a dark navy) and like the Chanel-like jacket with shorts look.

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These two outfits are not my style but the colourful top does look nice and the skirts are interesting!

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The first feature of this issue is how to dress to make the best of your height. Then comes my favourite part of the magazine (and reason one of why I bought it:-) – summer basics!

I like shirt #2!

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My number two reason for buying this magazine – inspiring dresses!

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I especially like this turquoise dress.Simple, looks comfortable yet elegant.

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Dresses is actually the third feature of this magazine – basically you can make many different dresses by using the instructions on how to change the collar, sleeves, etc. Pattern for the basic dress is included in real size.

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Many more beautiful patterns in the magazine makes me heart-eyed and happy:-)

For over a year I bought Mrs Stylebooks but never ended up making anything from them, since the hurdle to draft my own pattern is high! Now, I actually feel like I would like the challenge, and since it takes time for me to adjust the commercial patterns to my size anyway, But then, it is so hard to ignore the beckoning of my stack of cute/beautiful Indie patterns sitting in my closet:-)

Do you have a sloper and have you tried drafting patterns? or are you like me and been using only commercial patterns so far?

Mrs Stylebook Mid-Summer 2014 is available at sew tokyo.

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(日本語が英文の後に続きます。)

I did exactly what I said I would do in my previous post, make up some more Republique du Chiffon patterns! Two to be exact:-)

First, let me start with the more successful of the two, the top of the RDC Anne-Marie top and skirt set. I went quite crazy when I saw all those nice RDC patterns and could not decide what to make first, but a white simple top is always a good place to start and I wanted to wear it to work.

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It is basically a woven t-shirt with buttons on both sides, very easy to make except for the hand-hemming. I like the boxy shape:-) I used a piece of white broadcloth which has been in my stash since last summer.

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I lengthened by 2 cm. I can see it paired up with a slim pencil skirt (that is on the sewing list!) for work.

The pattern tells you to add a 1 cm seam allowance after tracing, and recommends seam finishing by surging or zig-zagging the edges, which is what I did. It is nice to have some basics in my closet, and I think I will wear it a bit!

*note: for me i couldn’t get the pattern pieces of the button placket and main t-shirt body – one of them, I forgot which, was 1-2 cm longer and I thought I made a mistake in tracing but was not sure where the error occurred.

Next, I made the Jupe Hotesse from the book Un Ete Couture. It is really a simple make, no frills, all the edges are finished by zig-zag stitching. The material I used is a cotton twill or garbardine which has a nice sheen. I was too lazy to add a lining and now I regret it since it clings when I walk. I originally made a muslin for the size my waist corresponds to, but it turned out too big so I went for a size smaller the S and added 1 cm to the length.

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When I first finished the skirt I liked it because the material looked elegant and the shape so basic. But as I wore it to work and looked in the mirror, I found it was a shape not so flattering on me – the belly part is pretty roomy and tulip-y. Perhaps the style of this pattern is not supposed to be fitted but I think once I snap out of my laziness I will tinkle with it a bit to make it a bit more fitted.

Thanks for reading! On the sewing table currently is another RDC project:-) Almost the weekend! anything on your sewing table /knitting basket planned for this weekend:-) Happy Independence Day weekend for those in the US:-)

***

前回の記事で予告した通り、またRepublique du Chiffonのパターンを使って洋服を作りました!2点も作りました:-)

まずはその中から比較的に気に入ってる、RDC Anne-Marie top and skirt setのトップスから話しましょう。RDCからSS2014のパターンが出たとき、デザインがあまりにもかわいすぎてほぼのパターンを買いどちらから作ろうかと悩んでいたが、とりあえず仕事用のシンプルな白いトップスがほしくて、このパターンから始めたのです。

生地は昨年の夏に購入したC&Sの海のブロードです。身長にあわせてパターンに2センチの長さを加えました。形はTシャツに見えますが、両サイドにワイシャツの前のようにあきボタンがついています。このルースフィットで四角い形がかなり好きです:-) ペンシルスカートにあわせればオフィスシーンにもぴったりで、この夏はヘビロテしそう(笑)

++このパターンをとても気に入っていますが、なぜか私の場合は身頃がボタンプラケットより1-2センチほど長かった。パターンをパトロン紙に写したときにミスしたのか、と思って再確認したが、どうやらそうでもなかったので不思議でした。縫い代を始末するときに調整すれば完成品に影響がありませんでした。

次は、Un Ete Coutureという同じデザイナーによる本の中のJupe Hotesseを紹介します。こちらはとてもシンプルな形のスカートで、作り方も本当に簡単だった。生地は光沢のあるチノーパン用の生地を使いました。サイズは、ウエイストのサイズに合わせてサイズを選んだのですが、仮縫いのものが大きかったので、結局はSにして、1センチ長さを足しました。夏ですし、裏地を入れるのが面倒だったので、裏地なしのままに仕上がりましたが、静電気で足にくっ付いたりしますので裏地を付けておくべきだったと反省しています。

高級感のある生地で形もシンプルなので、完成したときはとても気に入っていてオフィスには何回も着ていきました。でも、再度鏡でみてみるとなんかぶかぶかで、このチュリップを逆さまにした形に私が似合わないと思うようになった。いつかやる気を出してもうちょっとフィット感のあるものにしたいと思います。

最後まで読んでくださってありがとうございます。もう週末すね〜 私のソーイングルームには、別のRDCのパターンが待っています(笑)皆さんは今週をどうお過ごしされる予定ですか。

 

bonjour Mélanie

(日本語は英文のあとに続きます)

This is my first finished project from the book Un été couture, by Géraldine of République du Chiffon. It is the Robe Mélanie.

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I really love this dress because it is very much my style! Not too dressed up nor feminine, very simple but with a small detail. If you have seen other versions or own the book, you may have noticed that I moved the zipper to the back. I had made a muslin for it with the zipper at the front as per the original design, but in the end preferred it at and moved it to the back. The pattern was well-drafted and very easy to make up.

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Speaking of République du Chiffon, I love the entire paper pattern collection, too! They all look so chic yet classic, I cannot wait to make them all up. Also, I have many projects planned from the Un été couture book, too… I definitely need a couple of jupes hôtesses for work. Since I now work in an office with a more rigid dress code than at my previous job, I cannot wear many of my previous makes to work and I need to adjust my sewing plans accordingly (ie. basic items in conservative colours) if I want them to be items I can wear on the weekdays. This is a little limiting sewing-wise (esp.  since I love Liberty prints and bright colours) but nonetheless I am looking forward to building a stylish me-made work wardrobe. I have even started a Pinterest board to collect ideas for my work wardrobe.

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I made a S graded to M at the waist and added 9 cm in length. The material is a wonderful black linen oxford, which has a sheen and which is not see-through, so I opt for no lining (will wear with a slip instead).

Do you have many opportunities to wear your me-made pieces on weekdays/during the week?

***

République du ChiffonのRobe Mélanieを完成しました。このパターンが Un été coutureというフランス語の洋裁本の中に記載されているもので、簡単であっという間に作れました。同じデザイナーによる封筒に入っているタイプのパターンのシリーズもあり、フランスからの郵送料も含むと少しお値段が張りますが、全部作りたいな〜と思わせるほどかわいいデザインのものばかりです。でもまずはこの本の中に記載されている、シンプルでオフィスににぴったりのスカートなど他のパターンを作ってみようかな?

いまの職場は前の職場に比べてドレスコードがきびしいため、今まで作ったもののほとんどがオフィスに着れなくなった。生地の柄とかきれいな色でインスパイアされて洋服を作ることが多かったが、いまはオフィスにも着ていけそうなデザインと色であるかどうかも考慮して慎重に生地・パターンを選んでいます^^;  最近はPinterestを使ってまでオフィススタイルについて「研究」しているのです。

 このパターンのSを作って(ウエイスト部分はM)、長さを9cm足しました。オリジナルデザインのファスナーは前身頃にあり、それはおしゃれだと思いますが、個人的にはファスナーが後ろにあるほうが好きなので変えました。その他の補正はありません。

みなさん、自分で作ったお洋服を着る機会がたくさんありますか。平日のお用事・お仕事にも着ていますか。

 

 

menswear, first but not last

(日本語が英文の後に続きます。text in Japanese will follow English)

Hello, I hope everyone is enjoying the June weather so far. In Japan June marks the rainy season (rain is forecasted for the whole of next week!) – I don’t mind though, as I love sitting and listening to the rain while knitting or reading (mostly something sewing-related these days:-)

I just finished my first menswear me-made! This is part 1 of 2 of my husband’s birthday present. I had owned the pattern and the fabrics with the intention of making a shirt for my husband for a long time but never got around to it, and finally for my husband’s birthday in April, I was inspired by Andrea of Stitch Parade with her idea to gift the actual fabric and pattern first (actually I gifted the whole sewing book of mens shirt patterns and a bag of fabrics to choose from. I didn’t think my husband would be overly excited actually because he already owns many shirts (he wears a shirt almost every day), but he was a good sport and helped choose two styles of shirts and two fabrics.

Here’s the first shirt, with a wide-spread collar as requested by my husband.

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I used the normal “poking with pointy object” when turning one of the collar points (left in this picture) and this technique with turning the other one (right in this picture) and the one using the special technique is much much neater!

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The check matching tested my patience greatly, but I found some quite useful tutorials online which made things easier and especially found the ideas on Lladybird and Grainline Studio to be great references! Not bad, right?

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Don’t look too close! The sewing was a bit sketchy after long hours of trying to match the checks@_@

The pattern is from the Book of Men’s Shirts by Ryuichiro Shimazaki who is renowned for his Book of Men’s Coats. I could not resist buying this book when I first saw it though I had just started sewing at that time…

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I mean, how neat that you can choose from so many types of collars!

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and cuffs…  buttons too of course

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Super well-illustrated and gives detailed information about each part of the shirt (I never notice until I sewed one up!)

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Here’s number 8 the wide-spread collar model (I ended up using a different cuff)

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my dream is to make this denim shirt one day (the book even has instructions on how to treat your denim to make it look “aged”, and other cool techniques to make the clothing look better.

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But I like this basic one also.

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Fun facts I learned after sewing this shirt/ reading this book. Did you know that the shell buttons of expensive dress shirts are slightly thicker at 4mm than those of regular shirts? The reasons, according the book, are that 1) a slightly thicker button is easier to close with one hand and 2) only a small fraction of shells can grow to a thickness suitable to make 4mm buttons = more rare.

Also, since the collar stand is thicker, the first button is thinner (ie. 2mm) so that it is easier to open/close. I put 4mm (3.5 mm?) ones and a 2mm one for the collar stand.

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Despite having a husband who loves to wear shirts, I never noticed that the first and the last buttonhole of the shirt is horizontal while others are vertical.

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My husband was quite happy with the result! It could have been a little bigger  - but now I know where I have to adjust and hopefully I will be able to make one that fits him better, and get some pictures of the shirt on him!

Despite it not being something for myself, I really enjoyed this project because it was challenging and working with shirting fabric which is so crisp especially after ironing is so satisfying! seeing husband wearing something I sew is of course a great reward too:-)

After this relatively successful make, I would like to make more menswear! I still have one more shirt to make for my husband, and also ordered the “Book of Coats” by the same author.

What kind of project do you enjoy most when it comes to unselfish sewing?

The Book of Men’s Shirts can be found at sew tokyo.

***

もう6月になりましたが、みなさんはいかがお過ごしですか。天気予報によるとずっと雨が続きますが、雨の音を聞きながら編み物したり本を読んだりすることが好きな私にとっては梅雨の季節が決していやじゃありません。

旦那のためにシャツを作りました!もともとパターンの本も生地もその為に買っておいたのですが、怠けてなかなか作る気にのれず時間が経ってしまいました。やっとこの間の旦那の誕生日のときに、買っておいた「材料」のパターンの本と生地をプレゼントして、本の中から好きなシャツの形と生地を2着分選んでもらい、作り始めました。旦那はもう何着も持っているので、このプレゼントを気に入ってもらえるか少し心配だったが結構喜んで自分のカスタムメードシャツのための生地・形を選んでくれました。

一着目は旦那の気に入りの「ワイドスプレッドカラー」に、シンプルなカフスを合わせました。シャツカラーを返すときはこの「職人技」がとても参考になりました。このシャツを作ることにあたり一番大変だったのが柄合わせでした。柄合わせに疲れて、最後はステッチがあまりきれいに縫えてない。。。柄合わせのときはこの二つの海外ブログが結構参考になりました:Lladybird とGrainline Studio

パターンが嶋崎 隆一郎の「男のシャツの本」より。この本がとても素敵だと思います。シャツカラーとカフス、ボタンなどシャツの各パーツについて詳しく説明が書かれているので読んでると結構おもしろいです。知ってましたか?通常のシャツのボタンが2mmであるに比べ、高級シャツには片手で掴みやすい貴重は4mm貝ボタンが使われていること。また、カラースタンドが固めのため、第一ボタンが他に比べ少し薄いものを使うこと。シャツの第一ボタンおよび一番下のボタンホールだけが水平していること。すべて目に鱗。

この本はわかりやすい図がたくさん載っているため、初心者の私でもあまり難なくシャツを作れました。いつか本の中に載っているデニムシャツにチャレンジしてみたいと思います。もう少しサイズの大きいものを作ればよかったようだが、それでも旦那が結構喜んでくれましたので、それを励みに次のシャツに取りかかりたいと思います^^ つい、同じ作者が書いた「男のコートの本」も注文かけちゃいました(笑)

皆さんはプレゼントのためなら何を作るのが一番好きですか。

my sewing room and update

Let me start with what seems like my standard opening line these days- it has been awhile!

The last month I was not only busy with work but we also moved into a new house!  (can you tell I am still very excited about it?!) Not only that, I have my OWN SEWING ROOM!! (I would be doing cartwheels now if I know how to do one:-)

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What’s great about it is that not only does it mean I don’t have to clean up my “sewing studio” for dinner time (my old studio was actually my dining room:-), there is room to store all my sewing books and goodies including my ever-growing fabric stash!

Due to the move, I did not have internet for 3 weeks and had not been able to post or comment on your blogs much but I still really enjoyed reading them on my cellphone – I especially reading about everyone’s Me Made May posts:-)

Before the internet was shutdown, I had been very lucky to have been nominated by Julia of Foam of Days recently. I love reading Julia’s blog ever since I discovered it after reading her great post featuring the cheongsams in In the Mood for Love, so I am quite honoured. I had also luckily received another nomination from the sweet Alia at Au Naturel Essence – whose blog about natural skincare is very interesting –  awhile back so I decided to thank them together in this post:-) Thank you Julia and Alia for your nominations!!

My answers to Alia’s questions:
1.  How do you keep your skin clean and fresh?  I try to keep it simple to soap and a basic moisturiser

2.  If you could travel to one place in the world, where would it be?  Where my loved ones are!

3.  What is your favourite animal? for some reason polar bear comes to mind first

4.  What is your favorite type of food? soft-boiled eggs or anything with egg in it:-)

5.  How do you motivate yourself to get difficult tasks done? haha, I wish I knew the answer… I guess by sandwiching interesting tasks in between

6.  How many times do you wash your hair in a week? 4-5

7.  Who do you admire the most and why? my family - because they are them!

8.  What is your favorite brand of make up? recently I like Clinique (presented by Mom:-)

9.  What is the one word that describes you the best? …thoughtful? (deep in thought)

10.  What is your favorite book?  Sense and Sensibility

Julia encouraged her nominees to write about something they have not blogged about before, so I will write about the recent smoothie-making craze which has over-taken my husband and I since we bought a mixer at the supermarket after the move. It is quite fun, but we haven’t been able to make any great smoothies yet (was too lazy to try to Google recipe using iPhone). If anyone has any great recipes to recommend, please share!

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I am not sure how to check the number of readers but here are some blogs I like to read/nominate:

La Petite Maison Couture – very stylish lady in France who makes trendy clothing like something bought from a Maison!

Except the Shoes* – I like the clever name of this stylish sewing/knitting blog a lot!

Tangled Up in Blue – Kontanze blogs about sewing and she has many pieces of beautiful hand knitted clothing

Alison Rea Mason – a lady sewing and knitting in Canada- look at this beautiful green skirt she made with self-dyed fabric

Linnae Design – blog of a young designer in Germany  - beautiful photography and inspiring creations

The rules of the Liebster award are here but my question-formulating skills are not better than my question answering skill… so please just tell us about your favourite something lately:-) ie. favourite sewing pattern, favourite knitting pattern, favourite SMOOTHIE? favourite yarn? favourite way to spend the summer?

Thank you for reading!

***

ご無沙汰しています。最近の記事がすべて似たような挨拶からはじまるような気がします(汗)

このたびはGW中に引越をしました!近所への引越だったので、そこまで大変ではなかったが、業者さんが工事に来てくれるまでの3週間インターネットが使えなかったので違う意味で大変だった。でも、引越してよかったです。なぜなら、新しい住まいには、私のソーイング・ルームがあるからだ♪

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今まではダイニングテーブルの上に作業をしていたので、夕食のたびにミシンを移動したり、型紙を片付けたりしないといけなかったので、プロジェクトがなかなか進まなかったが、今後は専用のテーブル(ミシン用ともう1台、合計2台)があり、山ほどある布がちゃんと収まるクロゼットスペースもあり、ソーインググッツと洋裁本もすべて同じ部屋にあるので、作業がとてもしやすくなりました!

引越でインターネットが使えなかった、洋裁ブログを変わらぬ(ネットがない間は携帯で)愛読していました!特に皆さんのMe Made Mayの記事は楽しみにして読んでいます^^

最近は、Liebster AwardにFoam of DaysのJulia さんとAu Naturel EssenceのAliaがノミネートしてくださったのでありがたく受賞します。「受賞」するにあたり、まずは①聞かれる質問に答えて、それから②新たに5つのブログをノミネートする必要があります。早速ですが、私がノミネートするブログをご紹介します。

La Petite Maison Couture - フランスでお住まいでとてもスタイリッシュな方の洋裁ブログ

Except the Shoes* - 「靴以外なんでも(作る)」という素敵な名前を持つ素敵なブログ

Tangled Up in Blue - Kontanze さんが書いている洋裁&編み物のブログ。彼女の編み物の作品コレクションがうらやましい!

Alison Rea Mason - カナダに住んでいる方の洋裁&編み物ブログ。私は特にこのスカートの作品が好きです。

Linnae Design - ドイツに住んでいるデザイナーさんのブログ。数々の洋服の作品も、写真もとても素敵です。

読んでいただきありがとうございました!