Marine Top on Marine Day

日本語は英文のあとに続きます。

Hi everyone!

It’s the end of the three-day weekend in Japan (Marine Day today!) Instead of going to the beach, I spent another relaxing day at home sewing and house-making:-) Sounds a little unbelievable especially for those who know me, but I start to enjoy doing chores quite a bit since moving to our new house.

marineknit7

marineknit6

Anyway, what  a better way to end Marine Day by sharing with you my marine knit top, which I just finished blocking today! It is pattern K from Kazekobo’s Simple Summer Knits and I used a Japanese yarn which is a cotton/linen blend, as well as a cotton lace yarn (the pattern tells you to use the colour yarn and the off-white lace yarn at once so you get a specked effect).  I made it exactly according to the book, in the same colours too! Not because I was lazy per say but I like this colour combination (my husband, however, has a different opinion^^;

marineknit5

It is super simple to knit but it was a pain to have to change yarns every 8 rows. Also, I don’t know what I did wrong but the neckline part is not the prettiest… there was a point I became so frustrated I thought about giving up but I am glad I followed through to finish it. It looked pretty puffy and like something I would not wear after I knitted it, thank goodness wet-blocking flattened it and made it a lot nicer!!  The pattern is one-size fits all, and I think the fit is not too bad:D

marineknit4

Sorry for the blurry pictures…. I was so excited about finding this new photo spot in our house! On the display on the camera they didn’t look so blurry…

And in case you are wondering why I am not wearing my shoes… I tried but couldn’t put them on in time for the 15-second camera timer:P

marineknit8

marineknit9

marineknit10

marineknit11

As usual, let me introduce the book I used while I am at it. I bought the book last summer and now looking back it is interesting to see how my taste changed in one year… the things I want to make now are completely different from those I wanted to make last year (though the Breton is still high on my list for this year too!)

marineknit13

This lacey vest was on my to-make list last year.

marineknit14

I still want to make this Breton top!

marineknit15

Love the waffle-ly texture of this vest/shawl.

marineknit16

On last year’s to do list.

marineknit17

Again, love this interesting texture…

marineknit18 hey, my top!

marineknit19

marineknit20

marineknit21

marineknit22

Love this retro-looking scarf.

marineknit23

I used to think that knitting is only for the winter season and there is no need for knitted items in the summer but I proved myself wrong! This year I have been wearing every weekend the lacey linen top I made last summer (and which I am guilty of labelling “meh, it’s not very me” in my 2013 round up…)  I am already planning another summer knit project for this year!

And how about you, any summer items on your knitting needles currently?

Kazekobo’s Simple Summer Knits is available at sew tokyo.

 ***

みなさんは何をして三連休を過ごしましたか。私は、海に行かないでずっと家かその近所にいて編み物したり、洋服を作ったりしてすごくのんびりして過ごしました。編んでいたセーターを編み終えて、ブロッキングし、ちょうど海の日の今日、夏らしいボーダーセーターが完成しました!

上記の英文のほうで記載されている「風工房のシンプル夏ニット、こもの」のパターンKのフレンチスリーブセーターで、ワンサイズです。本に記載されている作品の色を気に入り、そのままマネしちゃいました!この作品はハマナカフラックスKとハマナカポームレースを各1本の2本取りで編みます。

メリヤス編みとガーター編みのみのパターンなので、簡単でしたが8段毎に毛糸を変えるのが面倒でした。また、えりぐりの部分はなかなかうまく進めず途中であきらめそうだったが、やっと編み終えたことにほっとしました。ブロッキングする前はフレンチスリーブがパフスリーブのようにみえ、「時間をいっぱいかけて作ったのに、これは着れないな、、、」と心配しましたが、ブロッキングが終わったらちゃんとしたフレンチスリーブのトップスになりました。

いつもセルフタイマーで写真をとっているのですが、今日に限ってほぼすべての写真のピントが合わなかった:-( また、今日選んだ靴は、履くのに時間がかかりすぎてセルフタイマーの最長時間(15秒)に設定しても間に合わなかったので、裸足で、、、(笑)

編み物は冬の趣味と考えがちですが、リネンやコットンの毛糸を使ったセーターとカーディガンなら軽くて涼しくて夏に着ても全然OKだと思います。昨年の夏に初めて編んだリネンセーター(昨年はまったくといっていいほど着なかったのに)を今年の夏ヘビロテしているし、ファストファッションのお店で買う冷房対策用のカーディガンより自分で編んだ方がずっと大切にできると思います。

みなさんは、この夏何か編んでいますか。

Mrs Stylebook Mid-Summer 2014

The newest issue of Mrs. Stylebook. A pretty good one!

mrsstylebooksummer2014-1

The designer patterns are always the “selling point” of these magazines, I believe, with patterns from actual clothing brands. This time, the brands featured were “Tiravento” and “I-na”. I quite like the red dress (I would make it in a dark navy) and like the Chanel-like jacket with shorts look.

mrsstylebooksummer2014-2

mrsstylebooksummer2014-3

These two outfits are not my style but the colourful top does look nice and the skirts are interesting!

mrsstylebooksummer2014-5

The first feature of this issue is how to dress to make the best of your height. Then comes my favourite part of the magazine (and reason one of why I bought it:-) – summer basics!

I like shirt #2!

mrsstylebooksummer2014-6

mrsstylebooksummer2014-8

mrsstylebooksummer2014-9

My number two reason for buying this magazine – inspiring dresses!

mrsstylebooksummer2014-10mrsstylebooksummer2014-11

 

I especially like this turquoise dress.Simple, looks comfortable yet elegant.

mrsstylebook2014summer-13

Dresses is actually the third feature of this magazine – basically you can make many different dresses by using the instructions on how to change the collar, sleeves, etc. Pattern for the basic dress is included in real size.

mrsstylebook2014summer14

Many more beautiful patterns in the magazine makes me heart-eyed and happy:-)

For over a year I bought Mrs Stylebooks but never ended up making anything from them, since the hurdle to draft my own pattern is high! Now, I actually feel like I would like the challenge, and since it takes time for me to adjust the commercial patterns to my size anyway, But then, it is so hard to ignore the beckoning of my stack of cute/beautiful Indie patterns sitting in my closet:-)

Do you have a sloper and have you tried drafting patterns? or are you like me and been using only commercial patterns so far?

Mrs Stylebook Mid-Summer 2014 is available at sew tokyo.

basics

(日本語が英文の後に続きます。)

I did exactly what I said I would do in my previous post, make up some more Republique du Chiffon patterns! Two to be exact:-)

First, let me start with the more successful of the two, the top of the RDC Anne-Marie top and skirt set. I went quite crazy when I saw all those nice RDC patterns and could not decide what to make first, but a white simple top is always a good place to start and I wanted to wear it to work.

basics7
basics6

basics-4

It is basically a woven t-shirt with buttons on both sides, very easy to make except for the hand-hemming. I like the boxy shape:-) I used a piece of white broadcloth which has been in my stash since last summer.

basics10

I lengthened by 2 cm. I can see it paired up with a slim pencil skirt (that is on the sewing list!) for work.

The pattern tells you to add a 1 cm seam allowance after tracing, and recommends seam finishing by surging or zig-zagging the edges, which is what I did. It is nice to have some basics in my closet, and I think I will wear it a bit!

*note: for me i couldn’t get the pattern pieces of the button placket and main t-shirt body – one of them, I forgot which, was 1-2 cm longer and I thought I made a mistake in tracing but was not sure where the error occurred.

Next, I made the Jupe Hotesse from the book Un Ete Couture. It is really a simple make, no frills, all the edges are finished by zig-zag stitching. The material I used is a cotton twill or garbardine which has a nice sheen. I was too lazy to add a lining and now I regret it since it clings when I walk. I originally made a muslin for the size my waist corresponds to, but it turned out too big so I went for a size smaller the S and added 1 cm to the length.

basics2

basics1

When I first finished the skirt I liked it because the material looked elegant and the shape so basic. But as I wore it to work and looked in the mirror, I found it was a shape not so flattering on me – the belly part is pretty roomy and tulip-y. Perhaps the style of this pattern is not supposed to be fitted but I think once I snap out of my laziness I will tinkle with it a bit to make it a bit more fitted.

Thanks for reading! On the sewing table currently is another RDC project:-) Almost the weekend! anything on your sewing table /knitting basket planned for this weekend:-) Happy Independence Day weekend for those in the US:-)

***

前回の記事で予告した通り、またRepublique du Chiffonのパターンを使って洋服を作りました!2点も作りました:-)

まずはその中から比較的に気に入ってる、RDC Anne-Marie top and skirt setのトップスから話しましょう。RDCからSS2014のパターンが出たとき、デザインがあまりにもかわいすぎてほぼのパターンを買いどちらから作ろうかと悩んでいたが、とりあえず仕事用のシンプルな白いトップスがほしくて、このパターンから始めたのです。

生地は昨年の夏に購入したC&Sの海のブロードです。身長にあわせてパターンに2センチの長さを加えました。形はTシャツに見えますが、両サイドにワイシャツの前のようにあきボタンがついています。このルースフィットで四角い形がかなり好きです:-) ペンシルスカートにあわせればオフィスシーンにもぴったりで、この夏はヘビロテしそう(笑)

++このパターンをとても気に入っていますが、なぜか私の場合は身頃がボタンプラケットより1-2センチほど長かった。パターンをパトロン紙に写したときにミスしたのか、と思って再確認したが、どうやらそうでもなかったので不思議でした。縫い代を始末するときに調整すれば完成品に影響がありませんでした。

次は、Un Ete Coutureという同じデザイナーによる本の中のJupe Hotesseを紹介します。こちらはとてもシンプルな形のスカートで、作り方も本当に簡単だった。生地は光沢のあるチノーパン用の生地を使いました。サイズは、ウエイストのサイズに合わせてサイズを選んだのですが、仮縫いのものが大きかったので、結局はSにして、1センチ長さを足しました。夏ですし、裏地を入れるのが面倒だったので、裏地なしのままに仕上がりましたが、静電気で足にくっ付いたりしますので裏地を付けておくべきだったと反省しています。

高級感のある生地で形もシンプルなので、完成したときはとても気に入っていてオフィスには何回も着ていきました。でも、再度鏡でみてみるとなんかぶかぶかで、このチュリップを逆さまにした形に私が似合わないと思うようになった。いつかやる気を出してもうちょっとフィット感のあるものにしたいと思います。

最後まで読んでくださってありがとうございます。もう週末すね〜 私のソーイングルームには、別のRDCのパターンが待っています(笑)皆さんは今週をどうお過ごしされる予定ですか。

 

bonjour Mélanie

(日本語は英文のあとに続きます)

This is my first finished project from the book Un été couture, by Géraldine of République du Chiffon. It is the Robe Mélanie.

melanie5

I really love this dress because it is very much my style! Not too dressed up nor feminine, very simple but with a small detail. If you have seen other versions or own the book, you may have noticed that I moved the zipper to the back. I had made a muslin for it with the zipper at the front as per the original design, but in the end preferred it at and moved it to the back. The pattern was well-drafted and very easy to make up.

melanie6

 

melanie9

Speaking of République du Chiffon, I love the entire paper pattern collection, too! They all look so chic yet classic, I cannot wait to make them all up. Also, I have many projects planned from the Un été couture book, too… I definitely need a couple of jupes hôtesses for work. Since I now work in an office with a more rigid dress code than at my previous job, I cannot wear many of my previous makes to work and I need to adjust my sewing plans accordingly (ie. basic items in conservative colours) if I want them to be items I can wear on the weekdays. This is a little limiting sewing-wise (esp.  since I love Liberty prints and bright colours) but nonetheless I am looking forward to building a stylish me-made work wardrobe. I have even started a Pinterest board to collect ideas for my work wardrobe.

melanie1

melanie2

melanie4

I made a S graded to M at the waist and added 9 cm in length. The material is a wonderful black linen oxford, which has a sheen and which is not see-through, so I opt for no lining (will wear with a slip instead).

Do you have many opportunities to wear your me-made pieces on weekdays/during the week?

***

République du ChiffonのRobe Mélanieを完成しました。このパターンが Un été coutureというフランス語の洋裁本の中に記載されているもので、簡単であっという間に作れました。同じデザイナーによる封筒に入っているタイプのパターンのシリーズもあり、フランスからの郵送料も含むと少しお値段が張りますが、全部作りたいな〜と思わせるほどかわいいデザインのものばかりです。でもまずはこの本の中に記載されている、シンプルでオフィスににぴったりのスカートなど他のパターンを作ってみようかな?

いまの職場は前の職場に比べてドレスコードがきびしいため、今まで作ったもののほとんどがオフィスに着れなくなった。生地の柄とかきれいな色でインスパイアされて洋服を作ることが多かったが、いまはオフィスにも着ていけそうなデザインと色であるかどうかも考慮して慎重に生地・パターンを選んでいます^^;  最近はPinterestを使ってまでオフィススタイルについて「研究」しているのです。

 このパターンのSを作って(ウエイスト部分はM)、長さを9cm足しました。オリジナルデザインのファスナーは前身頃にあり、それはおしゃれだと思いますが、個人的にはファスナーが後ろにあるほうが好きなので変えました。その他の補正はありません。

みなさん、自分で作ったお洋服を着る機会がたくさんありますか。平日のお用事・お仕事にも着ていますか。

 

 

menswear, first but not last

(日本語が英文の後に続きます。text in Japanese will follow English)

Hello, I hope everyone is enjoying the June weather so far. In Japan June marks the rainy season (rain is forecasted for the whole of next week!) – I don’t mind though, as I love sitting and listening to the rain while knitting or reading (mostly something sewing-related these days:-)

I just finished my first menswear me-made! This is part 1 of 2 of my husband’s birthday present. I had owned the pattern and the fabrics with the intention of making a shirt for my husband for a long time but never got around to it, and finally for my husband’s birthday in April, I was inspired by Andrea of Stitch Parade with her idea to gift the actual fabric and pattern first (actually I gifted the whole sewing book of mens shirt patterns and a bag of fabrics to choose from. I didn’t think my husband would be overly excited actually because he already owns many shirts (he wears a shirt almost every day), but he was a good sport and helped choose two styles of shirts and two fabrics.

Here’s the first shirt, with a wide-spread collar as requested by my husband.

shirt1

I used the normal “poking with pointy object” when turning one of the collar points (left in this picture) and this technique with turning the other one (right in this picture) and the one using the special technique is much much neater!

shirt2

The check matching tested my patience greatly, but I found some quite useful tutorials online which made things easier and especially found the ideas on Lladybird and Grainline Studio to be great references! Not bad, right?

shirt4


shirt3

Don’t look too close! The sewing was a bit sketchy after long hours of trying to match the checks@_@

The pattern is from the Book of Men’s Shirts by Ryuichiro Shimazaki who is renowned for his Book of Men’s Coats. I could not resist buying this book when I first saw it though I had just started sewing at that time…

shirt9

I mean, how neat that you can choose from so many types of collars!

shirt10

and cuffs…  buttons too of course

shirt14

 

shirt16

Super well-illustrated and gives detailed information about each part of the shirt (I never notice until I sewed one up!)

shirt12

Here’s number 8 the wide-spread collar model (I ended up using a different cuff)

shirt21

my dream is to make this denim shirt one day (the book even has instructions on how to treat your denim to make it look “aged”, and other cool techniques to make the clothing look better.

shirt17

But I like this basic one also.

shirt22

Fun facts I learned after sewing this shirt/ reading this book. Did you know that the shell buttons of expensive dress shirts are slightly thicker at 4mm than those of regular shirts? The reasons, according the book, are that 1) a slightly thicker button is easier to close with one hand and 2) only a small fraction of shells can grow to a thickness suitable to make 4mm buttons = more rare.

Also, since the collar stand is thicker, the first button is thinner (ie. 2mm) so that it is easier to open/close. I put 4mm (3.5 mm?) ones and a 2mm one for the collar stand.

shirt7

Despite having a husband who loves to wear shirts, I never noticed that the first and the last buttonhole of the shirt is horizontal while others are vertical.

shirt8

My husband was quite happy with the result! It could have been a little bigger  – but now I know where I have to adjust and hopefully I will be able to make one that fits him better, and get some pictures of the shirt on him!

Despite it not being something for myself, I really enjoyed this project because it was challenging and working with shirting fabric which is so crisp especially after ironing is so satisfying! seeing husband wearing something I sew is of course a great reward too:-)

After this relatively successful make, I would like to make more menswear! I still have one more shirt to make for my husband, and also ordered the “Book of Coats” by the same author.

What kind of project do you enjoy most when it comes to unselfish sewing?

The Book of Men’s Shirts can be found at sew tokyo.

***

もう6月になりましたが、みなさんはいかがお過ごしですか。天気予報によるとずっと雨が続きますが、雨の音を聞きながら編み物したり本を読んだりすることが好きな私にとっては梅雨の季節が決していやじゃありません。

旦那のためにシャツを作りました!もともとパターンの本も生地もその為に買っておいたのですが、怠けてなかなか作る気にのれず時間が経ってしまいました。やっとこの間の旦那の誕生日のときに、買っておいた「材料」のパターンの本と生地をプレゼントして、本の中から好きなシャツの形と生地を2着分選んでもらい、作り始めました。旦那はもう何着も持っているので、このプレゼントを気に入ってもらえるか少し心配だったが結構喜んで自分のカスタムメードシャツのための生地・形を選んでくれました。

一着目は旦那の気に入りの「ワイドスプレッドカラー」に、シンプルなカフスを合わせました。シャツカラーを返すときはこの「職人技」がとても参考になりました。このシャツを作ることにあたり一番大変だったのが柄合わせでした。柄合わせに疲れて、最後はステッチがあまりきれいに縫えてない。。。柄合わせのときはこの二つの海外ブログが結構参考になりました:Lladybird とGrainline Studio

パターンが嶋崎 隆一郎の「男のシャツの本」より。この本がとても素敵だと思います。シャツカラーとカフス、ボタンなどシャツの各パーツについて詳しく説明が書かれているので読んでると結構おもしろいです。知ってましたか?通常のシャツのボタンが2mmであるに比べ、高級シャツには片手で掴みやすい貴重は4mm貝ボタンが使われていること。また、カラースタンドが固めのため、第一ボタンが他に比べ少し薄いものを使うこと。シャツの第一ボタンおよび一番下のボタンホールだけが水平していること。すべて目に鱗。

この本はわかりやすい図がたくさん載っているため、初心者の私でもあまり難なくシャツを作れました。いつか本の中に載っているデニムシャツにチャレンジしてみたいと思います。もう少しサイズの大きいものを作ればよかったようだが、それでも旦那が結構喜んでくれましたので、それを励みに次のシャツに取りかかりたいと思います^^ つい、同じ作者が書いた「男のコートの本」も注文かけちゃいました(笑)

皆さんはプレゼントのためなら何を作るのが一番好きですか。

my sewing room and update

Let me start with what seems like my standard opening line these days- it has been awhile!

The last month I was not only busy with work but we also moved into a new house!  (can you tell I am still very excited about it?!) Not only that, I have my OWN SEWING ROOM!! (I would be doing cartwheels now if I know how to do one:-)

sewingroom1

sewingroom2

What’s great about it is that not only does it mean I don’t have to clean up my “sewing studio” for dinner time (my old studio was actually my dining room:-), there is room to store all my sewing books and goodies including my ever-growing fabric stash!

Due to the move, I did not have internet for 3 weeks and had not been able to post or comment on your blogs much but I still really enjoyed reading them on my cellphone – I especially reading about everyone’s Me Made May posts:-)

Before the internet was shutdown, I had been very lucky to have been nominated by Julia of Foam of Days recently. I love reading Julia’s blog ever since I discovered it after reading her great post featuring the cheongsams in In the Mood for Love, so I am quite honoured. I had also luckily received another nomination from the sweet Alia at Au Naturel Essence – whose blog about natural skincare is very interesting –  awhile back so I decided to thank them together in this post:-) Thank you Julia and Alia for your nominations!!

My answers to Alia’s questions:
1.  How do you keep your skin clean and fresh?  I try to keep it simple to soap and a basic moisturiser

2.  If you could travel to one place in the world, where would it be?  Where my loved ones are!

3.  What is your favourite animal? for some reason polar bear comes to mind first

4.  What is your favorite type of food? soft-boiled eggs or anything with egg in it:-)

5.  How do you motivate yourself to get difficult tasks done? haha, I wish I knew the answer… I guess by sandwiching interesting tasks in between

6.  How many times do you wash your hair in a week? 4-5

7.  Who do you admire the most and why? my family – because they are them!

8.  What is your favorite brand of make up? recently I like Clinique (presented by Mom:-)

9.  What is the one word that describes you the best? …thoughtful? (deep in thought)

10.  What is your favorite book?  Sense and Sensibility

Julia encouraged her nominees to write about something they have not blogged about before, so I will write about the recent smoothie-making craze which has over-taken my husband and I since we bought a mixer at the supermarket after the move. It is quite fun, but we haven’t been able to make any great smoothies yet (was too lazy to try to Google recipe using iPhone). If anyone has any great recipes to recommend, please share!

sewingroom3

I am not sure how to check the number of readers but here are some blogs I like to read/nominate:

La Petite Maison Couture – very stylish lady in France who makes trendy clothing like something bought from a Maison!

Except the Shoes* – I like the clever name of this stylish sewing/knitting blog a lot!

Tangled Up in Blue – Kontanze blogs about sewing and she has many pieces of beautiful hand knitted clothing

Alison Rea Mason – a lady sewing and knitting in Canada- look at this beautiful green skirt she made with self-dyed fabric

Linnae Design – blog of a young designer in Germany  – beautiful photography and inspiring creations

The rules of the Liebster award are here but my question-formulating skills are not better than my question answering skill… so please just tell us about your favourite something lately:-) ie. favourite sewing pattern, favourite knitting pattern, favourite SMOOTHIE? favourite yarn? favourite way to spend the summer?

Thank you for reading!

***

ご無沙汰しています。最近の記事がすべて似たような挨拶からはじまるような気がします(汗)

このたびはGW中に引越をしました!近所への引越だったので、そこまで大変ではなかったが、業者さんが工事に来てくれるまでの3週間インターネットが使えなかったので違う意味で大変だった。でも、引越してよかったです。なぜなら、新しい住まいには、私のソーイング・ルームがあるからだ♪

sewingroom1

sewingroom2

今まではダイニングテーブルの上に作業をしていたので、夕食のたびにミシンを移動したり、型紙を片付けたりしないといけなかったので、プロジェクトがなかなか進まなかったが、今後は専用のテーブル(ミシン用ともう1台、合計2台)があり、山ほどある布がちゃんと収まるクロゼットスペースもあり、ソーインググッツと洋裁本もすべて同じ部屋にあるので、作業がとてもしやすくなりました!

引越でインターネットが使えなかった、洋裁ブログを変わらぬ(ネットがない間は携帯で)愛読していました!特に皆さんのMe Made Mayの記事は楽しみにして読んでいます^^

最近は、Liebster AwardにFoam of DaysのJulia さんとAu Naturel EssenceのAliaがノミネートしてくださったのでありがたく受賞します。「受賞」するにあたり、まずは①聞かれる質問に答えて、それから②新たに5つのブログをノミネートする必要があります。早速ですが、私がノミネートするブログをご紹介します。

La Petite Maison Couture – フランスでお住まいでとてもスタイリッシュな方の洋裁ブログ

Except the Shoes* – 「靴以外なんでも(作る)」という素敵な名前を持つ素敵なブログ

Tangled Up in Blue – Kontanze さんが書いている洋裁&編み物のブログ。彼女の編み物の作品コレクションがうらやましい!

Alison Rea Mason – カナダに住んでいる方の洋裁&編み物ブログ。私は特にこのスカートの作品が好きです。

Linnae Design – ドイツに住んでいるデザイナーさんのブログ。数々の洋服の作品も、写真もとても素敵です。

読んでいただきありがとうございました!

 

wiggle dress

日本語が英文のあとに続きます(text in Japanese below)

Hello!  I am happy  to finally share a new me-made item!  It has been a loooong while since I completed my last item, because I had been experimenting with vintage patterns.

wiggle4

This is made from the vintage pattern Butterick 2137 – view C. It is not the first time I made a vintage pattern but since the last time, I have gotten more picky with getting the right fit, and took a long time trying to adjust the pattern pieces to fit me.  All in all, with the multiple times dissecting /retaping the pattern/muslin testing, etc. and it took 4 weekends to complete.

wiggle14

wiggle2

My high bust measurement is closest to those of a Size 12 in vintage, and this pattern I own happens to be a Size 12!  According to the measurements, I should add more width to the bust and waist on a Size 12, but when I test-made a muslin without any changes, the bust was very roomy already (or the pattern has big armholes?)! I already read about the 50s and early 60s patterns having a larger bust, but one more thing I notice (and I haven’t found confirmation on the internet) is that the patterns are also made to have more room in the bodice back than modern patterns? I don’t know if this is  just me… The vintage patterns I have worked with seem slightly curved in the centre back seams (which I assume is to provide more room at the back) rather than a relatively straight line I see in the modern patterns I have used. I ended up straightening the back seam and decreasing the width of the bust line (instead of doing SBA), but I am not sure if this is the correct way to go about decreasing back /bust ease. If you have any tips on this issue, please let me know:-)

Despite all the time tweaking the pattern and the two muslins, the fit is not very good. As you can see from the pictures fabric is pulling in different directions since I decreased a bit too much at the bust and also at waist, while the tummy part looks roomy.

wiggle5

I like the kick-pleat detail!

I had in my mind a below-the-knee length from the start – but was not sure if it will be a flattering look on me. In trying to figure out skirt length, I came across this enlightening post on how to calculate your ideal skirt length! Very fascinating and interesting to see there is math behind it:-)  According to the post, a skirt length slightly above the knee works best for me, and it explains why I tend to choose skirts of that length! However, in the end, for this project I decided to stick to the below-the-knee length I had planned, for some variety in my closet. ***After looking at the pictures again I think I will hack off a bit more length!***

wiggle7

The neck is a little high – next time I would like to try a lower neck version of this dress.

wiggle8

The fabric is a lightweight Italian grey wool suiting I bought at the closing sale of Marunan fabric store in Shibuya.  It has a beautiful sheen and is lightweight enough for a dress. The lining is Bemberg rayon. They are both from my stash:-)

wiggle9

This is my sketch in Fashionary – I find it very useful not only for planning fabrics /projects, but also to keep track of the many changes to the pattern I make as long as how long each project takes me.

wiggle11

I love buying vintage patterns and while I am not very satisfied with the fit of this project, I am happy I finished it because there are still many vintage patterns I want to test!

Butterick 2137 – challenge somewhat conquered!

wiggle12

Quick facts:

Pattern: Vintage Butterick 2137 in Size 12

Fabric: Italian grey wool suiting / blue rayon Bemberg for lining

Adjustments: 

Lengthwise: Necklined dropped by 0.5 cm / back kick pleat moved down by 7 cm / added 0.7 cm length between bodice and skirt / chopped hem by 7 cm (to leave 4 cm  to hem)

Widthwise: Bust decreased by -5.6 cm / Waist +1.2 cm / Hip + 0.4 cm /move darts out 0.7 cm so they return to original position as they were before resizing)

 

****************************

こんにちは!久々に記事をアップできることをうれしく思っています。ここ1ヶ月はヴィンテージパターンに挑戦->失敗の繰り返しでお披露目できるものがなかったのですが、やっと新しいワンピース1着できました♪

wiggle4

こちらはヴィンテージパターンButterick 2137 – view Cから作ったワンピースです。以前もヴィンテージパターンを使ったことがありますが、洋裁を始めてから1年以上経つ今は洋服のフィット感にかなりこだわるようになったので、昔の体型のために作られたヴィンテージパターンを自分の体型にあわせるよう補正するのに結構時間がかかりました。週末にしか作業ができないため、パターン補正+仮縫い(x2)+本縫いで合計1ヶ月かかりました。

wiggle14

wiggle2

今回使ったパータンはサイズ12のもので、サイズチャートと自分の寸法を比較してみると、バストとウエスト部分をパターンより少し大きくしないといけないはずですが、パターンを補正しないままとりあえず仮縫いを作ってみると、バストは大きくするべきところが、パターンのままでももう既に大きすぎました。原因は50年代、60年代は弾丸の形をしたブラが流行ってた頃で、洋服のバスト周りが現代の物に比べ大きかったわけです。バストだけではなく、今まで利用したヴィンテージパターンは、背中もゆったりめに作られているような気がしますが、気のせいかな?補正の仕方があってるかどうかわかりませんが、今回はバスト周りの幅を縮めるために身頃全体の幅とまず縮め、その後はウエストとヒップに再度幅を足しました。

バストの幅を少し縮めすぎたのに加え、ウエストの幅もゆるみが足りなかったため、全体的のフィットが残念ながらあまりよくないです。また、パターンをどう操作すれば下腹部のゆるみが減少できるかわからなかったので、今回はこのままにしておきました。

wiggle5

後ろのキックプリーツが気に入っているポイント☆

このドレスの長さを決めるまで時間が経ちました。膝上のスカートが好きですが、膝上の物ばかり持っているしパターンのパッケージに書かれているイメージ通りに仕上がりたかったので、膝下に決めました。ちなみに、自分の体型に一番似合っているスカートの長さを、足の長さを計って計算できる方法がこのサイトで書かれているのでご興味のある方はぜひご参考ください。

wiggle7

ネックラインが少し高めです。次回は深い襟くりversionをトライしたいと思います。

wiggle8

灰色のイタリア製薄手ウール生地はマルナンの閉店セールで購入しました。裏地は以前買ったベンベルグ。

wiggle9

Fashionaryを活用しています♪スケッチブックとしてはもちろん、パターン補正の詳細やプロジェクトのスタート日と最終日を記録するにも便利です☆

wiggle11

 

ヴィンテージパターンが大好きなので、フィット感があまりよくないのは残念だけどやっとこのワンピースが完了できたことがうれしい:-)

Butterick 2137 (とりあえず完成!)

wiggle12

Grace Dressmaking さんの The Summer Dress Sewalongに参加する予定ですが、その際はヴィンテージパターンに再挑戦しようかな?皆さんもThe Summer Dress Sewalongに参加しませんか。

Quick facts:

パターン: Vintage Butterick 2137 サイズ12

生地:表地:イタリアン ウール / 裏地:ペンベルグ

補正箇所: 

ネックライン:0.5 cm 広げる / キックプリーツ 7cm下に動かす / 身頃とスカートの間に0.7 cmを足す/ スカートの長さを-8cm (ヘム=4cm)

バスト: -5.6 cm / ウエスト +1.2 cm / ヒップ + 0.4 cm 

 

yarn shopping in Vancouver with my knitting Sensei

(日本語は英文のあとに続きます。Text in Japanese will follow English)

While I was in Vancouver last month, I went on a yarn shopping tour with my knitting Sensei (teacher) – aka my Mom^^ aka my gardening Sensei

My mother knitted all the sweaters, mittens and scarves for my sister and I when we were young, so we had cute knitwear since we could remember. She also taught us how to knit with little plastic knitting needles for kids… unfortunately at that time we preferred more exciting games over knitting. She has even knitted for a designer knitwear label!

She has since then stopped knitting for awhile, but after I started knitting recently she also started to get hooked onto knitting again:-) Here are some of her latest creations. As a novice myself, I find it truly amazing how she can knit without a pattern, use up left over yarns in creative ways, coming up with patterns while she knits, knit even stitches that look like they are knit by machine, etc… incredible!

momknit2

This grey one is an RTW which was taken apart and re-knitted by my mom (the ribbed sleeves were left as is). I like the “angle” detail!

momknit1

Creative use of the one leftover skein of blue Malabrigo which I sent:-)

momknit3

Here are the yarn shops we went to:

Three Bags Full
4458 Main Street, Vancouver, BC, Canada V5V 3R3
Tel : 604-874-9665

Urban Yarns
4437 West 10 Avenue Vancouver, BC, Canada V6R 2H8
Tel: 604-228-1122

Wet Coast Wools
2923 West 4th Avenue, Vancouver, BC, Canada V6K 1R3
Tel: 604-568-0011

Urban Yarns had the most extensive collection, including Malabrigo, Madelinetosh, Spud and Chloe… the list goes on and on. There is also the homegrown Sweet Georgia Yarns. After drooling in the shop for 20 minutes or so, I finally left with a skein of Swiss Silk by another local label Handmaiden (it is part of Fleece Artist). The colors in shimmery silks were all so beautiful, but at around CAD $40 for a skein of 400m, it was quite an indulgence so I only bought one skein to make a small scarf or wrap with. If you have not seen the Handmaiden site, please take a look! I guess it is because the silk is so shimmery, which makes the colours soooo beautiful…

momknit5

My Mom and I really had fun at Three Bags Full! As I mentioned, I thought Urban Yarns had a more extensive selection, but Three Bags Full had a very inviting, local atmosphere, and a large sale bin:-) We ended up buying some beautiful yarns, at 30% off regular price from the sale bin.

Can you imagine these beauties were in the sale bin?

momknit4

Ancient Arts BFL 4-ply fingering in Lodgewood Pine

With these beautiful yarns, I am currently working on Light Trails, the latest pattern by Suvi Sivola. The pattern is very well-written and I have had no trouble with it so far. I can’t wait to finish it and wear it before it gets warm! My knitting Sensei also bought the same yarns (in colorway Salal Jungle which is a brighter green) and is working on this pattern which I also find beautiful.

Can’t wait to go for more yarn shopping in Vancouver with my knitting Sensei again:-)!

Do you usually buy your yarns at a local shop or over the internet? If you have any recommended shops, please share!

***

先月、バンクーバーに帰省したとき、私の編み物の先生であり園芸の先生でもある母親と毛糸を買いに行ってきました!

母親はもともと編み物が大好きで、私と妹が子どもの頃、よく素敵なセーターとかマフラーを編んでくれました。子ども用の編み棒を買って私たちにもそのスキルを伝授しようとしたが、子どもの頃の私があまり編み物に興味をわかなかった。その母親ですが、有名なニットデザイナーからデザインの商品化をお願いされるほど、編むのが上手です。

その後はしばらく手を休んでいましたが、最近は私が編み物に夢中になってから母親も再度編み始めました:-) 初心者の私は、パターンもみる必要がない、パターンがなくても自分にぴったりなセーターなりカーディガンなり編める母親が本当にすごいと思っています。

これらは母親の最新作です。高い毛糸を買わず、あちらこちらで残っている毛糸を使ったり、古いセーターをリメイクするのが私の母のスタイルです。

momknit2

グレイのセーターは古いものからのリメイク(袖の下の部分はオリジナルのものを残して)

momknit1

使えきれなかったMalabrigoの毛糸を実家に送ったら、母親がそれを使って素敵なカーディガンを作りました!

momknit3

私にとっては、もう魔法使いに領域だといっても過言でありません。

この3軒に母親と足を運びました。

Three Bags Full
4458 Main Street, Vancouver, BC, Canada V5V 3R3
Tel : 604-874-9665

Urban Yarns
4437 West 10 Avenue Vancouver, BC, Canada V6R 2H8
Tel: 604-228-1122

Wet Coast Wools
2923 West 4th Avenue, Vancouver, BC, Canada V6K 1R3
Tel: 604-568-0011

Urban Yarnsさんは一番セレクションが充実していました。Malabrigo, Madelinetosh, Spud and Chloe…その他のブランドもたくさんおいてあります。カナダのブランドであるのSweet Georgia Yarnsももちろんおいてある。店内で20分ほどいろいろみて悩んだあげく、同じくカナダのブランドのHandmaidenFleece Artistのサブブランド)のSwiss Silkを1点購入。1玉(1 skein @ 400m) がカナダドル$40で高めですが、シルキーで本当にきれいな発色がとても魅力的で思わず買いました。とても素敵なストールができると思います。

momknit5

私たちが一番楽しかったお店がThree Bags Fullでした。毛糸のセレクションはUrban Yarnsほど豊富ではなかったが、それでもかなり素敵で十分に豊富なセレクションがあって、雰囲気がにぎやかで居心地がとてもよかったです。お店の億にある30%〜50%オフのセールコーナーもかなりセレクションがよかった!私と母親は結局、1人3玉ずつセールコーナーから買っちゃいました:-)

こんなに素敵な毛糸が30%オフで買えるのは本当にラッキーでした♪

momknit4

Ancient Arts BFL 4-ply fingering in Lodgewood Pine

この毛糸を使って、Suvi Sivolaさんの最新パターンLight Trailsを編んでいます。大変よく書かれたパターンで、いままで全然問題なく編んでいます。暖かくなる前に編み終えたいよ〜

ちなみに私の母親は同じ毛糸の”Salal Jungle”というもう少し明るい緑の毛糸を3玉買って、このとても素敵なパターンを編んでいます。

次の帰省でまた母親と毛糸ショッピングに行くことを楽しみ♪♪

海外の毛糸は皆さんはどうやって手に入れていますか。

Mrs. Stylebook Spring 2014

The first issue of Mrs. Stylebook for 2014 is here!

mrsstylebooksp201401

As this is the spring issue, there is a lot of pastel colours! So pretty… as with the previous issue, there are featured designer patterns by Yuki Torii and M’s Gracy.

mrsstylebooksp201402
mrsstylebooksp201403

mrsstylebooksp201404

mrsstylebooksp201405

The designer patterns above come with drafting instructions only (no construction instructions). I quite like the pink trench coat (it looks so fresh), and I also like the “ivory and white” suit set on the left-hand side.

The featured theme of this issue is the skirts – tight skirts and flared skirts and include a variety of skirt patterns. As with previous issues drafting and construction instructions are available for almost all clothing in the magazine. It is also interesting that all the clothing are designed by a clothing designer and are available for sale (there is a listed price in the magazine).

mrsstylebooksp201406

mrsstylebooksp201409

mrsstylebooksp201408

My favourite section of the magazine is one featuring a one-week wardrobe for two types of styles, “trad” which refers to traditional British style/preppy, and “casual” which features the loose silhouettes one often finds in Japanese sewing magazines. I am a fan of the clothing and style featured in the “trad” section.

mrsstylebooksp201417

mrsstylebooksp201418

mrsstylebooksp201419

This is the “casual” wardrobe from the same section.

mrsstylebooksp201416

There are many other patterns featured including some by new designers. Here are a few…

mrsstylebooksp201410

mrsstylebooksp201411

mrsstylebooksp201415

mrsstylebooksp201414

There are three jackets with actual size pattern included. I quite like the mint green jacket! and lastly a cute bag!

mrsstylebooksp201420

mrsstylebooksp201421

mrsstylebooksp201422

mrsstylebooksp201423

I like the preppy style section and I like this magazine overall (it is by Bunka Publishing and usually has some good sewing tips included in the magazine – in this edition, there is a complete illustrated guide on how to make a skirt… i.e.. inserting zipper, making kick pleat, etc.). However, truthfully I was not overly excited by this issue – probably has very much to do with the fact that we just had two consecutive weekends of snow and that the temperatures are still too cold to imagine spring clothing^^;

How do you like this issue? Have you started any sewing for spring yet?

Mrs. Stylebook Spring 2014 is available at sew tokyo.

double silk dots dress

(日本語は英文のあとに続きます。Text in Japanese will follow English)

Hello. It has been awhile since I posted a piece of clothing I made for myself. The last few months I got quite hooked onto knitting and so it took me almost 2 months to finish this project.

Here is my version of the Anna dress pattern from By Hand London.

My “I want to wear this with red heels!” silky Anna!🎵

My first dress made truly following my measurements!

My stash-busting success Anna as well:-)

dotsdressa1

最近は編み物にハマり洋裁をしばらく手放してしまったが、ようやく新しいドレスを完成しました♪ By Hand LondonさんのAnnaで、このドレスを着たら、赤いハイヒールを入って出かけたいという気分になりました♪

As many people who used this pattern already commented, this is a great pattern, easy-to-follow and flattering! I can see the reason why one would want to make many versions of this:) The tutorials on the By Hand London blog were very helpful as well.

わかりやすくて、ラインがきれいなパターンという評判ですが、まさにその通りです。洋裁ブロガーの中でこのパターンを使って何着も作った方々がたくさんいますが、私もよくその気持ちがわかります。ラインがきれいでシンプルなワンピースは何着もほしいですね。

dotsdressa2

To be truthful, this is the first time I followed my measurements in choosing a pattern size in my 1 year+ of sewing history. I had always started to muslin with the smallest pattern size by default without measuring… with no reason for doing so! That practice resulted in items which are always a tight in the muslin stage (and hence I always had to make adjustments to the waist). This time I also made the smallest size to start – resulting in a muslin which was far too tight at the waist and also at the bust. Reading the By Hand London tutorials (which gave tips on whether to make a FBA or go up in size at the bust) prompted me to take my measurements and start over with another muslin.

洋裁を始めてから1年以上が経ちますが、自分のスリーサイズにあったパターンサイズを選ぶのは実は今回が始めてで、いままでは何となくパターンの一番小さいサイズから仮縫を作っていました。そうするとできたものがいつもウエイスト部分がきつくて本番のときはウエイスト部分を調整をいれなければなりませんでした。今回も仮縫いの段階で一番小さいサイズを作ってしまいました。ウエイスト部分だけじゃなくてバストもとてもきつかった。バストのサイズが合わない原因がバストのサイズよりも、カップのサイズである可能性もあるので、ドレスのカップサイズを調整をしなければならないこともある。そのBy Hand London さんのHPに載っているアドバイスをみて、バストかカップサイズ、どちらを調整するべきかを迷っていたのが、スリーサイズをきちんとはかってもう1回仮縫いを作るきっかけとなった。

dotsdressa3

Finally! I should have followed my measurements properly from the start ages ago. I was surprised to find that my measurements span across THREE sizes! I did not end up making a FBA as the second muslin using these new measurements fit well the way it was. Finally, a fitted dress in which I had breathing room! I had thought that a tight-fit was better than a too-loose-fit, but now I know I prefer to have this right amount of ease in my clothing. There were no longer endless adjustments I needed to make to the muslin to make it fit me… wish I had done this much earlier!

今回はきちんとスリーサイズをはかりパターンのサイズチャートと照合しました。そうすると、私のスリーサイズがなんと、それぞれが別のドレスサイズに当てはまることが判明!そのサイズに合わせて作った仮縫いのドレスがぴったりだったので、カップサイズの調整が不要でした。せっかく洋裁をしていたので、もっと早くスリーサイズにあった洋服を作ればよかったのに・・・洋服はだぼだぼすぎるより、ぴったり目のほうがいいと思いましたが、このだぼだぼすぎない、適当なゆるみがあるフィットをとても気に入っています♪

This dress was also a stash busting success – a total of 4 pieces + 1 lining busted! I ended up using two pieces of fabric for two muslins, and then two pieces of silk (sheer cream and black dot silk-cotton, underlined with white crepe de chine). The basting of the underlining took forever since there are so many pieces to this pattern! The dress was still too sheer on its own despite the double-layer of silk, and so I lined it with Bemburg rayon.

さらに、このドレスを作ることによって、布の山から4枚も(裏地を入れて5枚も!)布を減らすことができました!その内訳は、仮縫い用に2枚と、水玉模様のシルクコットンと白いデシンを重ねて一枚の表地として扱いました。白くて薄い生地で重なっても透けちゃうので、ベンバーグの裏地もつけました。

dotsdress6

The only real problem I had (other than losing my patience several times during the whole handling silk / underlining with silk / French-seaming the double layer of silk as well as the lining) was when I was trying to hem the dress. I thought the best way to hem it was to use a rolled hem foot. However, due to the many French seams (double-layered as well), this did not work and I ended up hand-hemming the whole thing. Also, I followed Tasia‘s idea of tapering the edges of the hem at the bottom of each seam to avoid pointi-ness at the hem.

このパターンのピース数が多くて、比較的に扱いにくいシルク生地を何枚も袋縫いすることが根気のいる作業だったが大きな問題点がなかったです。唯一、あまりうまくいかなかったのは、裾かな・・・薄い生地なので、3つ巻き押えを使ってミシンで縫うのが一番だと考えたが、袋縫いで合わせ目が分厚かったのでうまくいきませんでした。結局裾を手で縫うことに・・・滑らかな裾ができるためにTasiaさんのアドバイスを参考して、合わせ目の裾のところのカーブを少し緩和させました。

dotsdress9

I used this dress as an excuse for buying more sewing notions… yay! Other than my new “sewing foot for thin fabrics”, I also got a rotary cutter which worked wonderfully for cutting these thin and slippery fabrics.

このドレスを作るのを言い訳に、新しい洋裁道具を買っちゃいました!前回の記事で話した「薄地用押え」の他にロタリーカッターも買いました。薄地をカットするには本当に便利ですね。

dotsdress7

If I was to make another one again, I will choose a lighter interfacing or use no interfacing for the facing (the pattern did not call for any) – the one I used, though already lightweight, seems a bit too stiff to me.

もう1つ反省すべき点ですが、見返しに接着芯を貼らなくても(もしくは極薄のものにするとか)よかったのかな(パターンは接着芯のことについて何も書いてありません)と思いました。

Quick facts:
Pattern: Anna from By Hand London
Size: B – traced in between Size 8 and 10 / W – traced between Size 10 – 12 / H – size 6
Adjustments: cut off 6 cm from the hem
Fabrics: silk cotton with cream dots, underlined with white crepe de chine, lined with Bemberg rayon

パターン:Anna from By Hand London
サイズ:バスト サイズ8~10の中間  /ウエイスト サイズ10 ~12の中間 / ヒップ サイズ6
調整箇所:裾を6cm短く
生地:シルクコットン(水玉模様)、デシン、ベンバーグ(裏地)