double silk dots dress

(日本語は英文のあとに続きます。Text in Japanese will follow English)

Hello. It has been awhile since I posted a piece of clothing I made for myself. The last few months I got quite hooked onto knitting and so it took me almost 2 months to finish this project.

Here is my version of the Anna dress pattern from By Hand London.

My “I want to wear this with red heels!” silky Anna!🎵

My first dress made truly following my measurements!

My stash-busting success Anna as well:-)

dotsdressa1

最近は編み物にハマり洋裁をしばらく手放してしまったが、ようやく新しいドレスを完成しました♪ By Hand LondonさんのAnnaで、このドレスを着たら、赤いハイヒールを入って出かけたいという気分になりました♪

As many people who used this pattern already commented, this is a great pattern, easy-to-follow and flattering! I can see the reason why one would want to make many versions of this:) The tutorials on the By Hand London blog were very helpful as well.

わかりやすくて、ラインがきれいなパターンという評判ですが、まさにその通りです。洋裁ブロガーの中でこのパターンを使って何着も作った方々がたくさんいますが、私もよくその気持ちがわかります。ラインがきれいでシンプルなワンピースは何着もほしいですね。

dotsdressa2

To be truthful, this is the first time I followed my measurements in choosing a pattern size in my 1 year+ of sewing history. I had always started to muslin with the smallest pattern size by default without measuring… with no reason for doing so! That practice resulted in items which are always a tight in the muslin stage (and hence I always had to make adjustments to the waist). This time I also made the smallest size to start – resulting in a muslin which was far too tight at the waist and also at the bust. Reading the By Hand London tutorials (which gave tips on whether to make a FBA or go up in size at the bust) prompted me to take my measurements and start over with another muslin.

洋裁を始めてから1年以上が経ちますが、自分のスリーサイズにあったパターンサイズを選ぶのは実は今回が始めてで、いままでは何となくパターンの一番小さいサイズから仮縫を作っていました。そうするとできたものがいつもウエイスト部分がきつくて本番のときはウエイスト部分を調整をいれなければなりませんでした。今回も仮縫いの段階で一番小さいサイズを作ってしまいました。ウエイスト部分だけじゃなくてバストもとてもきつかった。バストのサイズが合わない原因がバストのサイズよりも、カップのサイズである可能性もあるので、ドレスのカップサイズを調整をしなければならないこともある。そのBy Hand London さんのHPに載っているアドバイスをみて、バストかカップサイズ、どちらを調整するべきかを迷っていたのが、スリーサイズをきちんとはかってもう1回仮縫いを作るきっかけとなった。

dotsdressa3

Finally! I should have followed my measurements properly from the start ages ago. I was surprised to find that my measurements span across THREE sizes! I did not end up making a FBA as the second muslin using these new measurements fit well the way it was. Finally, a fitted dress in which I had breathing room! I had thought that a tight-fit was better than a too-loose-fit, but now I know I prefer to have this right amount of ease in my clothing. There were no longer endless adjustments I needed to make to the muslin to make it fit me… wish I had done this much earlier!

今回はきちんとスリーサイズをはかりパターンのサイズチャートと照合しました。そうすると、私のスリーサイズがなんと、それぞれが別のドレスサイズに当てはまることが判明!そのサイズに合わせて作った仮縫いのドレスがぴったりだったので、カップサイズの調整が不要でした。せっかく洋裁をしていたので、もっと早くスリーサイズにあった洋服を作ればよかったのに・・・洋服はだぼだぼすぎるより、ぴったり目のほうがいいと思いましたが、このだぼだぼすぎない、適当なゆるみがあるフィットをとても気に入っています♪

This dress was also a stash busting success – a total of 4 pieces + 1 lining busted! I ended up using two pieces of fabric for two muslins, and then two pieces of silk (sheer cream and black dot silk-cotton, underlined with white crepe de chine). The basting of the underlining took forever since there are so many pieces to this pattern! The dress was still too sheer on its own despite the double-layer of silk, and so I lined it with Bemburg rayon.

さらに、このドレスを作ることによって、布の山から4枚も(裏地を入れて5枚も!)布を減らすことができました!その内訳は、仮縫い用に2枚と、水玉模様のシルクコットンと白いデシンを重ねて一枚の表地として扱いました。白くて薄い生地で重なっても透けちゃうので、ベンバーグの裏地もつけました。

dotsdress6

The only real problem I had (other than losing my patience several times during the whole handling silk / underlining with silk / French-seaming the double layer of silk as well as the lining) was when I was trying to hem the dress. I thought the best way to hem it was to use a rolled hem foot. However, due to the many French seams (double-layered as well), this did not work and I ended up hand-hemming the whole thing. Also, I followed Tasia‘s idea of tapering the edges of the hem at the bottom of each seam to avoid pointi-ness at the hem.

このパターンのピース数が多くて、比較的に扱いにくいシルク生地を何枚も袋縫いすることが根気のいる作業だったが大きな問題点がなかったです。唯一、あまりうまくいかなかったのは、裾かな・・・薄い生地なので、3つ巻き押えを使ってミシンで縫うのが一番だと考えたが、袋縫いで合わせ目が分厚かったのでうまくいきませんでした。結局裾を手で縫うことに・・・滑らかな裾ができるためにTasiaさんのアドバイスを参考して、合わせ目の裾のところのカーブを少し緩和させました。

dotsdress9

I used this dress as an excuse for buying more sewing notions… yay! Other than my new “sewing foot for thin fabrics”, I also got a rotary cutter which worked wonderfully for cutting these thin and slippery fabrics.

このドレスを作るのを言い訳に、新しい洋裁道具を買っちゃいました!前回の記事で話した「薄地用押え」の他にロタリーカッターも買いました。薄地をカットするには本当に便利ですね。

dotsdress7

If I was to make another one again, I will choose a lighter interfacing or use no interfacing for the facing (the pattern did not call for any) – the one I used, though already lightweight, seems a bit too stiff to me.

もう1つ反省すべき点ですが、見返しに接着芯を貼らなくても(もしくは極薄のものにするとか)よかったのかな(パターンは接着芯のことについて何も書いてありません)と思いました。

Quick facts:
Pattern: Anna from By Hand London
Size: B – traced in between Size 8 and 10 / W – traced between Size 10 – 12 / H – size 6
Adjustments: cut off 6 cm from the hem
Fabrics: silk cotton with cream dots, underlined with white crepe de chine, lined with Bemberg rayon

パターン:Anna from By Hand London
サイズ:バスト サイズ8~10の中間  /ウエイスト サイズ10 ~12の中間 / ヒップ サイズ6
調整箇所:裾を6cm短く
生地:シルクコットン(水玉模様)、デシン、ベンバーグ(裏地)

About these ads

13 thoughts on “double silk dots dress

  1. Your Anna dress is just gorgeous ans so perfect! I finally ordered this pattern last week (everyone seems so enthusiastic about it) and now I can’t wait to make it. Despite my hurry though, I will take time to check BHL tutorials, as you suggested. Thanks for sharing your sewing experience!

      1. I don’t have a Web site, but I will gladly send you a picture of my make by email when I’m done!

  2. Well done, it looks great! Love the fabric choice. Hemming silk and, even worse, silk chiffon is a real pain. I thought I was about to go insane when I had to hem my wedding dress :) That was 3m silk + 6m silk chiffon.

    1. Thank you! I love silk but I agree it is a pain to hem! I can’t imagine hemming silk chiffon, and so much of it, as you did for your wedding dress..that must have required so much patience!

  3. Absolutely gorgeous. The more Anna dresses I see, the more I want to make.
    I also used to default to fitting things smaller than they needed to be, and it was a revelation to finally find the right point of ease.

  4. It looks beautiful! I can only imagine the headaches you have had with previous muslins when you did not go by your measurements. If it makes you feel better, I also span three sizes :) You did a fantastic job with tricky silk fabric and the inside finish looks so professional. Plus, way to go stash busting!

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s