Charlotte

Hello everyone, I hope you are well. I am back with another me-made item! Actually, I completed it a few weeks back but was quite tight, and I finally mustered up enough will power to alter it the past weekend.

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This skirt is made from the pattern “Charlotte” of By Hand London, made using a Japanese wool pin stripe stretch fabric.

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I still remember when I first read about this pattern from Reanna Louise on her blog – her “End of the World” skirt. I had always loved pencil skirts and want to make one exactly this shape and ending below the knee.

It was very simple to put together. I used the same sizes as for my Anna dress and it was fine in the muslin stage, but when I made it in the actual fabric and lined it, it became too small at the hip, so I took apart the sides and widened it by 1 cm on each side (meaning I had to sew with a 0.5 cm seam allowance on each side… yikes… a little scared when I sit down that the seam would not hold up but so far it has been fine).  Lengthwise, I shortened by 3 cm before where the kick pleat starts, and then hemmed off by turning 3 cm (zigzag stitched edge) to the inside.

The only adjustment I did was to add a kick-pleat (using the pattern instructions from this dress). I am glad I did! It is a bit restricting to walk even with the kick-pleat because of the shape of this skirt, I don’t think I would have managed to walk in this skirt if I had made it without a slit/kick-pleat, despite the fabric having stretch content.

Here’s the skirt with black shoes (this will become my office outfit:-). I am so happy with this skirt because I can wear it on and off work. My only dissatisfaction is with those funny wrinkles around the darts… I think it is because I did not line up the fabrics well enough, or stretched it when sewing? I tried to take the darts apart and re-sewed it hoping to eliminate this issue, but the wrinkles remain… I also made each dart 1 cm longer to see if it would change things… but the puckers/wrinkles remained.

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If anyone has any advice on what I can do to solve the wrinkle at darts issue, I would love to hear from you! I hope to make more skirts from the same pattern and hopefully my next version would be pucker/wrinkle-free!

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Thank you for reading! I wish you a wonderful rest of the week ahead:-)

 ***

こんにちは。また新しい洋服を作っちゃいました!実はこのスカートを作ったのは2〜3週間前ぐらいですが、完成品がけっこうきつかったので、しばらく放置してしまいました。先週末は(オフィスに着るものがだんだんなくなったこともあって)やっと重い腰を上げてヒップ周りをもう少し緩くしました。

今回使ったパターンがBy Hand Londonの”Charlotte Skirt”です。以前は一度同じデザイナーの”Anna”というパターンを使ってドレスを作ったことがあるので、前回使ったのと同じサイズでスカートを作りましたが、ヒップ部分がきつくて、結局両側を1cmずつ大きくしました(両側の縫い代がそれで0.5cmまで減ってしまったので、いつか破れないかドキドキ…いまはまだ大丈夫ですが(笑)このパターンをそのまま使うとできあがりが長過ぎると以前ほかのブログで読んだことがあるので、予めに3cmを(間中ぐらいから)カットしました。裾もまた3cmあげました。生地は表がウールストレッチを1mぐらい使って、中はベンバーグです。

このパターンにはスリット(切り込み)がないですが、以前使ったヴィンテージパターンで学んだ「キックプリーツ」を入れました。入れてよかったです。キックプリーツを入れてもタイトスカートなので、若干歩きにくいです。キックプリーツが入ってなかったらおそらくこのスカートが家の外でデビューする機会がないでしょう。

オンでもオフでも使えそうで、気に入っています。別の色のも欲しくなりました。こういう簡単で作れるシンプルで着回しも効くのがいいですね!唯一気になるのは、左側のダーツがうまくできてないところかな?かなり気になっていたので、一度前のダーツを解いて縫い直したが、まったく改善されなかった。前のダーツを1cmずと長くしたが、それでもやはり気になる…もし改善方法がわかる方がいらっしゃいましたら、教えていただけると大変助かります。

読んでいただきありがとうございました!

にほんブログ村 ハンドメイドブログ ソーイング(縫い物)へ
にほんブログ村
にほんブログ村 ハンドメイドブログ 洋服(洋裁)へ
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13 thoughts on “Charlotte

  1. Very chic skirt! I actually thought the dart shape was a design feature, it makes a lovely soft shape against the lines on the fabric. I haven’t tried this techniques yet (so might not be explaining it very well!) but I’ve read that if you taper off when approaching the point of the dart and actually sew the last few stitches very close to the edge – parallel to the dart point instead of sewing right through it – that it helps keep the dart smooth. But I have yet to try doing that!

  2. I love this pattern and have made it several times now. I found it a very ‘neat’ fit too, but it’s also really flattering because of it. This looks a really good fit on you and I hope it becomes a useful skirt🙂

  3. If you’re talking about the puckering at the end of the darts, then I’ve got a couple of tips. I always sew darts from the widest part down to the narrow tip. I slow down as I get closer to the tip and at the very end I use only the hand wheel as I sew a couple of stitches very close to and parallel to the edge. Then I make some extra stitches without catching the fabric. Then lift up the presser foot and reposition the fabric to sew two more stitches in the seam allowance of the dart. This is a nice and quick way of fastening the thread🙂 last but not least, give it a good press with the iron! If this isn’t enough because the dart is big, you might need to make it a bit longer just to get that smooth curve.

    1. thank you very much for your detailed tips, Nicole! I really appreciate it and am very excited to try them out on my next project. it sounds like a very cool way to fasten the thread too:-)

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